DIY tripod for a pot. How to make a tripod for a pot with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

This topic is primarily addressed to tourists, survivalists and people who simply love to relax in nature, and in general to everyone who is thinking about the question of how best to hang a pot to cook food over a fire.

There are actually quite a few methods, as well as opinions about which method is the best. We will not make any conclusions, but will only express our opinion on this matter and describe the methods that are used most often.

However, before talking about ways to hang a pot over a fire, it should be noted that sometimes hanging the pot is not required, for example, if you decide to use one that allows you to place the pot directly on it or next to it. For example, !

How can you hang a pot over a fire?

1. For the first method, we will need a stick capable of supporting the weight of the pot, as well as suitable objects that can be used to create two hills above the fire (put stones in a pile or bricks, large cobblestones, place logs. You can make a fire where there are natural uneven areas rising above the fire on sufficient height).

Logs will also work.

One stick is also enough when using.

Hanging a pot over a Dakota fireplace.

2. The basis of the next method is also a stick, but you only need one support. You need to find a spear and drive (screw) it into the ground so that it does not fall, this way you will get a support. For greater stability, you can drive two or three spears, inclined towards each other (see photo below).

Two slingshots at an angle provide greater stability than one vertically.

Then you need to select a stick of sufficient length and place it at an angle on the support, while we hang a pot on one end of the stick, and securely fasten the other, pressing it down with a load (for example, a heavy log), or use a peg driven into the ground (which will press the stick to the ground ). You can even secure the end of the stick with a cord, tying it to a driven peg; this will allow you to adjust the tilt of the stick-holder, and therefore the height of the pot above the fire. You can also not secure the second end of the stick, but immediately hammer it into the ground at the desired angle, as shown in the figure below.

We drive a stick into the ground.

3. Next comes my favorite method and I love it for its relative simplicity, convenience, stability and aesthetic appearance that the finished structure has. To hang the pot, a crossbar is used, which is usually supported by two supports. The difficulty in construction can only be the search for suitable spears and the hardness of the earth. But, if you can handle this, you will get a pretty convenient hanger for pots.

The best way in my opinion.

Usually the bowler hat is hung directly on a stick (this is what I usually do), but if this is inconvenient for you, you can carry metal hooks with you or build a “hanger” from a stick with a knot, as shown in the video below:

By the way, the slingshots for the supports can also be replaced with ordinary sticks, only then you will need a rope or something similar to tie the tripods to replace the slingshot supports.

4. Another quite common and valid method, but it requires the construction of a fairly large tripod. We will need three long sticks that need to be tied together at one end. And spread the untied edges of the sticks to the sides. A rope is also attached to the top, to which the pot will later cling. Tripods are good for use on hard and rocky soils where it is difficult to insert supports into the ground.

A pot under a tripod.

5. Fifth method. This includes various cables and ropes, usually stretched between two trees on which the pot is hung. True, in this method you will have to use some kind of hooks (possibly taken or made in advance), otherwise removing the pot will be very problematic.

On a cable.

6. The next, one might say, group of methods includes devices taken in advance, most often metal ones, with the help of which it is very simple and quick to secure the pot (these are some purchased tripods, special homemade devices, etc.). To be honest, I don't particularly welcome this approach. Firstly, it’s excess weight, and secondly, and more importantly in my opinion, it’s much more interesting to do everything right there on the spot, with your own hands! However, we must admit that situations are different and sometimes you don’t want to waste time on this...

An example of such a device.

7. The seventh point includes all other methods of suspension, based on your ingenuity and design abilities. You can always come up with an unusual and effective fastening method, the main thing is that it is reasonable and does not turn into reinventing the wheel!

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A tripod for a cauldron or kettle is a real find for a tourist. Especially if it is a folding model of the mechanism. The cost of purchased models is too high, therefore, despite the demand, the level of sales cannot be called high. I don’t want to pay a huge sum for simple hardware.

Features of using tripods

An experienced tourist can make such a device himself. The design scheme is not complicated, and there are more than enough design options. A tripod for a pot with your own hands is an indispensable item in a tourist’s inventory. The device will be useful for both fisherman and hunters.

Often, improvised means are used as a stand for a camp pot—spears or crossbars found in the forest. And this option is good, but it is more convenient to make a tripod yourself, using more reliable materials.

Of course, you can resort to a simpler option and just find spears or purchase a ready-made model of a stand for a camp kitchen, so as not to bother with designing and preparing parts. Many people do this, but true connoisseurs of outdoor recreation prefer to do everything themselves. Having designed a stand, you won’t have to waste time looking for crossbars in the forest or planting, or spend a considerable amount of money on a purchased model.

By the way, constructing a tripod with your own hands is an excellent chance to gain survival experience on a camping trip. After all, without a place where you can prepare food, you will simply remain hungry.

Homemade metal tripod

The process of making a homemade metal tripod for a metal pot is so simple that you don’t even need any drawings, special skills or scarce materials. The dimensions of any of these structures are absolutely uncritical, and you can safely experiment.

But it is much easier and more practical to use a metal construction mounting rail.

It has a number of advantages:

You can purchase it at any specialized store.
Such slats have a very affordable price.
Only from it can a structure be made with minimal weight.
The presence of multiple holes greatly facilitates assembly work.

Let's look at one of the simple tripod designs made from similar mounting rails.

The material is also chosen at your discretion. Metal corners, ordinary tubes, strips, profile pipes and or simple fittings are quite suitable

You will need the following:

Metal mounting rail, that is, “din-rail” - 6 meters.
Set of screws and wing nuts – 6 pieces each.
Soft wire - 0.5 meters.
The metal chain is the height of the tripod with a margin.
Metal hook – 1 pc. Any homemade product is quite suitable.

Tripod manufacturing process:

The metal rail is cut into 6 parts. The size of each turns out to be 50 cm. These will be the components of the leg stands.
At the joints of the racks, holes are drilled for mutual fastening of the legs. It will be great if the existing holes match.
The racks are folded and mutually fastened with wire. It turns out to be a small tripod about 0.5 m high.
Next, holes are drilled for attaching the lower parts of the collapsible tripod stands. They are secured with bolts and wing nuts. This results in a fully assembled tripod with a height of about 95 cm.
All that remains is to secure the chain at the top of the tripod and evaluate the result of your actions.
The compact do-it-yourself tripod for the pot is completely ready. Now you can disassemble it and look forward to your next outing.
You can sew a special case for such a collapsible tripod, which will greatly facilitate its transportation.

We can safely say that such a simple tripod for a pot will become an indispensable assistant in all culinary activities in nature.

In addition, such a mounting rail makes a completely reliable and decent stand for a collapsible cauldron. Drawings of such products are posted in abundance on the Internet.

One of the benefits of outdoor recreation is cooking over an open fire, which makes ukha, kulesh and even simple tea seem incredibly tasty. But it is not always possible to find suitable stones to build something like a hearth. Therefore, taking a lightweight tripod made of aluminum tubes with you is an excellent solution, as it does not take up much space, is quickly assembled and is easy to use. Of course, you can buy a ready-made factory-assembled product, but for a craftsman who likes to do everything with his own hands, this is not interesting.

Preparation of material

The classic version of a tripod for a pot with your own hands, 1 meter high, consists of three steel supports. The rail is cut into equal parts, resulting in three identical parts 100 cm high. After this, each rail is further divided in half. The result is 6 structural parts of 50 cm each.

When folded, a do-it-yourself tripod for a pot will be 50 cm in length, and when unfolded it will be about 100 cm. This option is invaluable in camping conditions, especially if you have a long trek with an overnight stay.

Having prepared the supports, transverse holes are made at the end of each part of the rail, into which a ring of wire will later be threaded.

Insert the slats into the ring or triangle, choosing the more preferable option, and secure the structure. So, a tripod for a pot with your own hands, 50 cm in height, is almost ready.

Using the lambs, the remaining 3 slats are screwed to the legs of the tripod, increasing the length of the structure from 50 to 95 cm.

To attach the chain, take a nail and bend it in the shape of the letter “M”. It turns out to be a good tripod for a pot with your own hands.

Remember! When folded, the tripod is half the size of the product when fully unfolded.

This is one of the simplest options for a DIY pot.

This product will come in handy while relaxing near a river, lake, or in the forest. A folding tripod is the best option for hiking and weekend trips. It is easy to fold, carry and operate. Thanks to the presence of a chain and a homemade hook, you can adjust the height of a suspended pot or kettle.

Anyone who is interested in sports tourism or simply likes to periodically go to the taiga for an overnight stay knows that a tripod for a fire is simply necessary.

Most often, impromptu is used - two sticks found in the forest, with a crossbar placed on them, but usually, making a tripod from scrap materials takes time, which can be spent on more useful things. Of course, you can buy it in a store, but not everyone wants to spend money on three metal pipes, so it’s better to make it yourself.

How to make a tripod for a fire with your own hands?

For this you will need:

Six pieces of nuts and screws, those that are popularly called “wings,” but if not, you can get by with ordinary ones.

3 meters of mounting rail, which is also called “din-rail”, is sold in any building materials store.

30 centimeters of wire, 3 millimeters thick.

Chain.

The lath must be cut into three equal parts, each piece one meter long.

Now we cut each plank in half and in the end we get six slats of 50 centimeters each. You should get a tripod that, when folded, will be only half a meter long, and ready for use – 95, which is important when hiking.

Next, in three slats we drill holes for the wire ring, where we then insert them. Instead of a ring, you can make a triangle out of wire, whichever is more convenient for you, then carefully secure the structure. So, we have made a small tripod for a fire with our own hands.

Now, using screws and nuts, we attach the remaining three slats to the legs of the tripod, thereby increasing its height.

Well, in general, all that remains is to attach the chain: take a nail, give it the shape of the letter M and thread one link through it. The result is a comfortable, compact tripod that does not take up space and is useful on any hike.

In general, a do-it-yourself tripod for a fire has a lot of variations: for example, three steel pipes welded together at an angle, then you get a tripod for two pots, but for this, of course, you need a welding machine or a familiar welder.

Or, you can make a structure equipped with several hooks, and then you can cook several dishes on one tripod at once. Here everything depends on your desire and how you will use the tripod for the fire made by yourself.

Otherwise, every self-respecting tourist, even in camping conditions, is able to get out of any situation, especially when it comes to food.

But it’s always easier to spend money on something truly useful than on things that can easily be assembled at home without much effort.

You can also watch a video of a homemade tripod

Hello. Today I want to talk about how I made a tripod for a fire.

... As I have already mentioned several times, my friends and I from time to time go by car to the forest, where we live in tents for several days. This tradition has been going on for more than twenty years, and we are slowly acquiring the things we need for a comfortable stay in the forest. Among them is a tripod for a fire, which freed us from such activities as searching in the forest for suitable “slingshots” and crossbars, and then installing them near the fire. The tripod we purchased was like this (photo from the Internet. It’s not the season, and ours is hidden somewhere on a distant shelf.)):

During operation, a number of shortcomings were revealed, namely:

1. There is no way to quickly adjust the height of the cauldron suspension. (On fires, as a rule, there is no “twist” to quickly make the fire smaller)))) If there is a lot of boiling, there is only one thing left to do - regulate the heating by raising or lowering the cauldron (cauldron). Doing this by hanging it on another link in the chain is good only in theory! In practice, you need at least two people - one lifts the cauldron (and it’s heavy!), the other hangs the chain. And even doing it together with outstretched arms over a blazing fire and a boiling cauldron is still a pleasure!)))). In addition, if you hang it high, the rest of the chain tends to get dipped into the cauldron))).

2. Insufficient width! We have a large company, and if, for example, a fifteen-liter boiler is hanging, then it should only hang at the bottom! It is impossible to lift it, since the “legs” narrow at the top. In order for it to fit high too, the tripod must be more than two meters in height...

3. Lack of compactness. Even when folded, it is more than a meter long! Not every trunk fits lengthwise or across! And if you lay it diagonally, it takes up a lot of useful space!

4. It cannot be put aside if it is temporarily not needed! That is, I would like the assembled tripod to be a rigid structure that you can, wearing a glove (it can be hot!), simply put it aside temporarily, and then just as easily put it back in its place. (And when in this case, it did not change its geometry even if it was carried by one “leg”) And ours, when you try to lift it, folds. (And she is hot!))). That is, you can still remove it and throw it aside, but putting it back over a blazing fire is problematic! You need to wait until the fire goes out a little.

Considering all these points, I decided to make a new one with my own hands. And this is what I got:

In this photo it is not completely unfolded. The lower sections of the “legs” are telescopic!! If you extend them too, then the height from the ground to the hook (in its upper position) is 1 m. 60 cm!! It’s just that now is not the season for trips “out into nature” and I photographed it in a room whose dimensions did not allow such a massive structure to be fully captured in the frame.))))

Here's what I needed to make it:

1. Profile pipe with a cross section of 15 by 15 mm. 2. Profile pipe, cross-section 20 by... mm. (Needed for making a U-shaped guide, so any cuttings of a profile pipe with one wall of 20 mm will do) 3. Sheet iron 5 mm thick. (I have a “corrugated” one, this is not necessary) 4. Cut a M14 hairpin. 5. square (rolled) 10 by 10 mm. 6. square (rolled) 12 by 12 mm. (Needed to strengthen the bending points (“elbows”) of the “fifteen” pipe, so short pieces are suitable). 7. Suspended spring element from the Armstrong suspended ceiling system. 8. Wire with a diameter of 4 mm. 9.Cut off a 16 mm reeling tube. (Optional) 10. M6 bolts 25 mm long. (3 pcs. for making “leg” axes) 11. M6 cap nuts. (For the same thing.) 12. M6 wing bolts. (3 pcs. For fixing telescopic parts.) 13. M6 nuts (regular) 14. M14 nuts. 15. M5 wing bolts (3 pcs.) 16. M5 wing nuts (3 pcs). 17. Heat-resistant enamel.

I wrote this list and I’m shocked!!! After all, he was making a simple, one might say, primitive product, and a lot of names of materials were required! But nothing!! We are not looking for easy ways!!! The product turned out great and meets all the criteria I set! This means that your time and energy were not wasted!!

So, where did I start?.. Do you think, with a drawing? If so, then you are only partly right! The fact is that I never make drawings of my homemade products! This takes time, but there is never enough of it! Besides, homemade things are my hobby! This means that each product is made in a single copy! Therefore, after its manufacture, the drawing will certainly not be needed! And since God did not offend me with spatial thinking, I prepare all the “drawings” of homemade products only in my head! As a rule, I do this while driving, where I spend a lot of time, spinning around the city every day. And I only draw individual parts on blanks, before taking up the grinder!)))) And if I need to “convert into meters” the size I intuitively need, then I imagine the future part, holding a tape measure in my hands, looking at it, and mentally trying on the future part for it))))

But now I still drew a little... That is, I simply drew a sketch of a tripod of the size I would like, on a scale of 1: 1 on a sheet of cardboard.))).

And then it’s easier. By attaching the blank to the sketch, I made one of the three main elements. (I started with the upper parts of the “legs”). According to my idea, this part will have two short “arms” at the ends, bent at a certain angle. The upper “arms” will be dressed with their ends on the axis, and, through them, are hinged to the upper plate. The upper and lower plates will be pulled together with an M14 pin, and the “shoulders”, being sandwiched between them, will ensure rigid fastening of the “legs” and the desired angle of their placement... In short... Look at the photo of the finished product, you will immediately understand everything))): If If the pin is loosened and the plates are spread apart, then “the legs can be folded to a position where their long parts become parallel: That is, the mechanism for folding the main units is clear. By tightening the plates with a pin, we force the “legs” to diverge until their upper “shoulders” are firmly clamped between the plates. The structure will take on a rigid final shape.

Since it is impossible to bend the profile pipe at the desired angle, I, using a template (sketch), estimated the required length of the “arms” and the desired angle, and made cuts?

Since the upper “shoulders” will have to withstand heavy loads, I decided to strengthen them. I cut out one wall: I cut three sections from square rolled metal 12 by 12 mm and made transverse cuts in them with a depth of about half: Then, I bent it to the desired angle using the “sledgehammer-impact method” I “measured” the angle by applying the blanks to my sketch . After that, I hammered the resulting amplifiers into the pipe: Then I bent the “opened” parts to them and thoroughly welded them, paying attention to the cut at the bend. After pre-treatment with a grinding wheel, I drilled holes for the axles: That’s it... The upper “shoulder” is ready. I made the lower one with similar amplifiers, but I had to cut off the “arms” completely, hammer in the short amplifiers, and then weld them, because the design there will be slightly different: Having found the center, I drilled holes in them for the pin: From a piece of pipe with one wall of 20 mm, I I cut out three “seats” for the upper “shoulders” (as we remember, they have a square section with a side of 15 mm, and the internal size of the seats turned out to be 16 mm):

And welded them to the top platform.

Here I will describe my mistake. Initially, I planned to screw in the stud from below, so I welded an M14 nut to the top plate, protecting its thread from metal splashes with wet paper:

But already at the first “trying on” it turned out that tightening the hairpin from below is very inconvenient - the “legs” get in the way. Therefore, I drilled out a thread in this nut and welded a similar nut to the bottom plate. The pin will now screw in from the top.

In the corners of the lower platform I made cutouts for the “legs”. Now, when we clamp our structure, the lower platform into which the pin is screwed will not be able to rotate.

The next thing I did was to make a comfortable collar from a hairpin. First of all, I drilled an axial hole in it, 6 mm in diameter. I will need this in order to make a “tricky” cauldron suspension mechanism that is continuously adjustable in height, which I will tell you about later...

Drilling the hole was difficult. Drilled in a vice. To do this, I screwed on three nuts and “tightened” them well. He held them in a vice so as not to spoil the carving:

I constantly lubricated the drill, drilled at low speeds, made sure the drill was parallel in all planes... And the drill was short. Then I had to aim from the other side... But it worked!

To make the collar, I screwed two nuts onto the end of the stud and welded them:

Then I drilled two blind holes in their edges (so that they could reach the stud), hammered bolts into them and welded them: .... And I realized that I was wrong again!!! Since my folded tripod will have a triangular cross-section, it would be logical to make the case for it triangular! And such a crank will in any case protrude beyond the tripod...

So I cut off one bolt:

And welded two:

Such a knob can be rotated so that it does not stick out beyond the upper triangular plate, and it will be even more convenient to rotate it than a bolt with two knobs.

Next I started making the lower parts of the “legs”. As planned, they will be telescopic. A 10 by 10 square will come out of a 15 by 15 pipe. (The profile pipe has a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Theoretically, a 12 by 12 square rod, from which I made amplifiers, should go in there. But in practice, it can only be driven in there with a sledgehammer, since the pipe is welded and has a welding seam inside. Therefore, I chose a smaller cross-section). The telescopic extensions will be clamped to the desired position using wing bolts. Therefore, having cut out three sections of pipe of the required length, I drilled a hole with a diameter of 8 mm in them closer to the edge, and welded an M6 nut over them:

This was quite difficult to do with arc welding. To fix it in the desired position and to protect the thread from metal splashes, I used a bolt, which I “don’t mind”))))

I cut off the “extra” from all the pipes behind the welded nut:

I put it on the bars:

Welded and sharpened:

This design will protect the inside of the pipe from being clogged with earth if we stick it into the ground without unfolding the telescopic part, and, at the same time, will serve as limiters - it will not allow the rods to go inward when folded more than necessary... Yes, and it looks somehow “more organic”.))))) ...Initially, I thought about how to limit the projection of these elements. And he even came up with an idea... but abandoned this idea because then the telescopic structure would not be collapsible! And if sand gets inside, it will be difficult to clean! Therefore, I decided to exclude this moment, and in order not to accidentally stick out the “legs” more than expected, simply paint their upper part with red enamel. As soon as red appears - stop! You can't push it any further!

Now we will make the top mount. As planned, it should fold. But you can’t make it telescopic - the “knee” on the top gets in the way. And if you just fold it to the side on the axis, there won’t be enough rigidity. So I came up with this compromise solution:

The “legs” will fold on the axis, but having spread them 180 degrees, you can move them a little back so that their ends fit into the pipe of the upper part, and clamp them in this position with a wing bolt and wing nut. You will get a rigid fastening at two points - the hinge will be “immobilized by a telescopic moment!”

I implemented it like this:

I cut three square pieces with a side of 12 mm and drilled holes with a diameter of 6 mm in them:

After that, I cut one side lengthwise with a grinder.

Fans of hiking trips or trips into nature with romantic gatherings around the fire may need to cook fish soup or other soup, boil a kettle, or even cook pilaf. In this case, you cannot do without a special tripod. You can hang a bucket, pot, kettle or cauldron on it.

Making a hiking tripod

Now you can proceed directly to assembling the tripod. If pipes of greater length were prepared, they need to be cut to a convenient length, which can be any. To connect the bolts to each other, you need to loosen one of the loops a little so that you can put on the other bolts. The most convenient way to do this is to hold the bolt in a vice and loosen the ring with pliers or a gas wrench. This is the most difficult part of assembling the tripod, so you will have to do a little fiddling. When the eye is pressed down sufficiently, the rings of the other two bolts and one end of the chain are put on it. After this, using a hammer, the loosened ring is compressed so that the put-on elements do not fall out and the structure remains intact. The tripod legs are connected in this order. The end of a bolt with a nut screwed onto it is inserted into one of the ends of the pipes. If the nut dangles loosely in the pipe, then you need to tap the pipe on a hard base just above and below the nut and flatten it a little. This will allow you to securely fix the nut in the pipe so that the tripod does not fall apart at the most inopportune moment. When this is done, an S-shaped hook is put on the chain 3-5 links from the top of the tripod, which will allow you to adjust the height of the dishes above the fire. Advice!
The end of the hook, which is put on the chain, must be clamped with a hammer or pliers so that it does not fall out and is not lost during transportation. If the length of the chain is too long, then it needs to be shortened so that the dishes are located at a height of several centimeters above the ground when the tripod is unfolded.
Another S-shaped hook is placed on the last link of the chain and the end is clamped. Utensils will be hung on this hook: a cauldron, a pot, a teapot or other suitable utensils. You can adjust the height of the dishes above the fire by moving the legs of the tripod or by re-hooking the chain into several links on the top hook. Among the advantages of this design, one should note its compactness and ease of folding/unfolding. If desired, you can slightly expand the functionality of the tripod. For example, you can drill holes in the legs and attach additional hooks on which you can dry shoes or hang dishes away from the fire so that food does not get cold. Note!
When lighting an open fire in nature, you must follow fire safety rules! You also need to be careful when drying clothes or shoes over the fire so that they do not burn. To do this, the tripod legs must be of such length that their lower part can be located at a sufficient distance from the fire and remain cool. I think many, if not all, have encountered such a problem as Suspension of a Cooking Utensil over a Fire in the Forest

. To be honest, this topic is more voluminous and extensive than many people think, and even two publications are not enough to fully cover it, because... Each type contains many subtleties. After all, even quickly boiling boiling water for tea is Science. In this article I don’t want to present everything, but at least in my opinion, more successful designs of suspension systems without delving into their intricacies. I will dwell in more detail only on the 3 best options.

Z.Y. I warn you in advance about the large volume of the article. (For owners of slow Internet)

All the names of the options were invented by me personally, so please treat them with humor and in no case use common sense.

So, let's begin. Let's go from the end...

It’s hard not to mention the so-called classics, and with which one way or another you periodically have to deal, sometimes not of your own free will. We will talk about serious options from the middle of the article, where everyone can rewind if they are not interested. Although, to be honest, when I wrote all this, it was interesting even for me, even though I have made these options more than once in real life and thought through the text of this article before writing.

1) Method with Rohatins

The first method that I will consider will be the oldest and probably simplest. These are the well-known 2 spears stuck into the ground and a pole placed on them on which the pot(s) is hung.

I want to offer a slightly modernized design, which, in my opinion, is much more convenient than the standard one. If possible, you can find a spear similar to this one (with as many knots as possible) and provide yourself with, although rather imprecise, adjustment of the height of the pot hanging over the fire.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

An ax or a set of means is required to cut down and then hammer in the pegs.
It is necessary to spend some time searching for suitable spears and straight poles.
The need to periodically replace components due to their burnout
Quite poor suspension comfort. (Poor height adjustment and absolute inconvenience when hanging/removing the pot. And when using > 1 pot, this task becomes almost impossible.)

(+) Pros

The ability to build this suspension with a minimum of things
No need to carry it with you

2) Physical method

Advantages and disadvantages

I will not repeat myself, because... this method and the next one are quite similar, therefore all the advantages and disadvantages here are the same as in Point No. 1, although there is one very good delicacy here. Unlike these 3, in this method you do not need to have means for cutting pegs. For it you just need to find 2 suitable logs, stones or any other suitable item, therefore it has enormous versatility. This suspension can be built even without a single tree around, you just need to find a piece of stick and a couple of stones.

Improved ease of height adjustment, although we pay for this by the impossibility of hanging 2 or more pots.

3) Tourist-Physical method

See option 2, all the advantages and disadvantages are identical.

4) Other variations of the method With Rogatins

This class
is directly related to method No. 1, only it has undergone some changes due to the visual (-) of it. Namely, in most cases it is impossible to stick 2 stakes into the ground, or for example there are simply no trees, so we place our crossbar either on 2 large stones, or simply on snow (in winter), under a layer of which a fire burns in a previously dug trench, or on anything, depending on the situation.

See Option #1

So let's move on to the Treats, namely my favorites.

As I said, let's start from the end. Here I will give 3 of the best, in my opinion, hangers for bowler hats. 3

place:

5) Fire Rope

Everyone’s favorite and I think almost everyone knows the fire rope.
Here I want to present not a purchased one, but my homemade and invented version. I would like to warn you that the technology was patented by me personally, therefore everything is “Patented” ©. Suspension option in general plan

Construction structure: The structure consists of a Cable (2m and 1.5mm thick) at the ends of which a cord is tied (the length of the cord is selected individually, but I want to warn you that a cord that is too long begins to get in the way quite a lot when tying and winding (I have 3 and 5m. I recommend making it longer at one end, simply because it’s more convenient. You’ll understand why on the spot)) the thickness of which is at least 3mm. (mine is 4mm, but again it all depends on your requirements. If you plan to hang ropes of 10 liters on it, then both the cord and the cable should be taken much thicker. I have an option of no more than 10 liters in total.) The cable is tied to cord using special fasteners. (“Cable connector”, which, including the cable itself, can be bought at any hardware store. You should also purchase cable tips there - an extremely useful thing that prevents the cable from branching and the possibility of pricking itself on the end) Knot - any loose loop, preferably not greatly weakening the rope ( In this case, eight).

This structure is stretched between 2 trees with a thickness of 10 cm (this way there will be no problems in the wind, although you can tie it even by the seedlings) at approximately waist height. The tension force can be increased, but within reasonable limits, do not break the cable.

We've dealt with static elements, now about dynamic ones. And this is the 2nd part of this design, namely the chain. (Or chains, depending on how many kitties you need to hang) (You can also get a chain from a hardware store, you can use one like mine, or you can use a regular one, it doesn’t matter. The diameter depends on your requirements accordingly) The chain is attached to the top and bottom according to hook, which can be bent from the same chain, but it is better to make it from stronger wire. (I made it from unnecessary bicycle spokes) Why 2 hooks further...

The point is that the chain-hooks are one whole, thereby eliminating the eternal problem of this option - the rapid loss of hooks-Integrals.

Another “scourge” of this method is the impossibility of hanging the pot at any specific point; it always strives to slide to the center. In my version, I solved this problem by using the chain itself on which the pot hangs as a brake

without using additional bells and whistles to save weight. The chain consists of: The chain itself with hooks attached on both sides, with a bowler hanging on one end, and the other end bent over a cable and fixed to itself with a hook. At the same time, we also get the opportunity to adjust its length if we need to raise or lower the boiler, and this can be done either with the lower hook or the upper one.

The total cost of all components should be no more than 180 rubles, in contrast to wooden ones purchased for more than 200 rubles. (Mine cost me a little less than 110, taking into account the purchase of 3 sets of chains (for 3 boilers))

I’ll jump ahead to the pros and write here first so as not to overwhelm DiN with text. About the Pluses, Probably its most important plus, because of which I often take it instead of those that take 1st and 2nd places is - let's call it that way, “Soul”. Not a single option, well, with the possible exception of only 1 method (which is with spears), has something that attracts one to itself, so to speak, complements the situation. What else can compare with a rope hanging over a fire from which a pot is suspended, and some gloves, mugs and other household items are stuck on the sides. accessories... In my opinion, nothing!

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

The need to carry around with you, with all that entails...
Unlike the "Classics" you need to buy and then make
Possibility to pull only where there are 2 closely spaced trees
Impossibility of adjusting the position of the pot along the OX axis (perpendicular to the cable)

(+) Pros

"Soul"
Durability
Very good control over the position of the pot over the fire. (Starting from height and ending with location (Along the cable along the OY axis))

6) Tripod

Probably the simplest and cheapest suspension option, while having quite a few disadvantages. So to speak, an almost ideal price/quality ratio for a small group.

In order not to repeat myself, because... I have already described this option, I will just give a link to the article. Here I will only describe the most important features in my opinion.

This tripod is made from 3 legs made from poles of almost any shape (mine in the photo is made from curved poles, due to the lack of straight poles). The legs are tied with rope.

The position of the pot is adjusted by moving the support legs. We move them closer to the center - the boiler rises; We move it apart and it goes down. It’s the same with moving; depending on the desired position, we move one or more legs.

If desired, a regular rope with a wooden hook can be replaced with a Rep Cord with a chain tied to the end with a hook at the end. (as in the previous method) In this case, the functionality of the option increases even more, and the cost will not exceed 20 rubles.

If desired, the legs can also be made of aluminum, but I consider this to be a move towards reducing functionality and unnecessary.

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

Impossibility of hanging > 1 pot (You need to tie an additional rope, or come up with something to hang it on 1 hook)

(+) Pros

Absolute control over the position of the pot over the fire (Along all XYZ axes)
Durability
Cheap manufacturing
Doesn't interfere with walking around the fire
Versatility (Construction is possible even in the absence of trees (Racks can be of any shape)
Lightweight and compact to carry

7) Taganok

So 1st place - Taganok, made either in advance from metal, or directly on the spot from stones, poles and other improvised materials.

Unfortunately, I didn’t find a photo of the Taganka in my archives, so in this version I had to turn to third-party pictures from the Internet and Photoshop.

So, what is the main advantage of this seemingly non-compact, heavy option? And the whole class of this method is that it is the only method that can be used not only to cook, but also to fry, bake bread, etc. This means that it is better than all other options and is most suitable for cooking. Moreover, this option is the only one (it can probably only compete with a fire rope, but again not in everything) that is best suited for cooking for a large group.

Below I would like to show a quick diagram of my own portable Taganka, which I periodically use if I go on a hike not alone, but with 3 or more.

In the diagram: Red

- a hollow tube bent with the letter “P” is indicated.
(Preferably if it is thick-walled) Blue
- thin reinforcement, for legs
Brown
- Earth and
Black
- Bowler

Also, if desired, the taganka can be made on site from scrap materials, for example:

Advantages and disadvantages

(-) Minuses

In most cases, insufficient adjustment of the position of the pot along the OX axis (perpendicular to the bowler)
Pre-fabrication required (Although on-site fabrication is possible)
The option made of metal cannot always be stuck into the ground

(+) Pros

Unlike other options, it is possible to prepare food for a large group
Adjusting the position of the pot in height, the OY axis (along the taganka) and partially OX (perpendicular to it)
Durability
Possibility of manufacturing from scrap materials
The ability to fry anything, bake, etc.

Z.Y.:

I would be glad if this article is useful to someone.
If anyone knows other ways, write below, I think I’m not the only one who will be interested in learning something new... Thanks for watching! All photographs were taken from my archive, in this regard I am ready to answer any questions.

Tripods for cauldron

For decades now, many tourists have had tripods in their arsenal. These are the most reliable and simple designs

, which are very much appreciated during hikes. Having such a thing, there is no need to fence the structure in order to hang:

kettle;
bowler;
cauldron

It is easy and simple to install it over the fire.

The cauldron is a very used and popular type of camping utensil. Tripods are quite common for him. They generally range from eighty to one hundred and twenty centimeters.

To make your choice, you should first focus on where the event will take place and how to get there. It is important to take this into account because tripods and cauldrons are made of different sizes

and from different materials. There are tripods made of steel, cast iron or forged. Very often they are used as a frame, then covered with stones or bricks.

Types of tripods

Small

Has a chain and hook to adjust the height of hanging dishes. It is very easy to install over a fire in order to hang a kettle, saucepan or small cauldron on it. It has a height of seventy-five centimeters. Many tourists appreciate its convenience during hikes.

Big

A design for cauldrons, having a height of more than ninety centimeters and intended mainly for hanging any utensils that have a bracket handle on it. It is usually made of steel. These tripods come with a carrying case.

, in which it is very convenient to store them. In addition, since these structures are used mainly on the ground surface, in order to avoid pushing through the soil under the weight of a suspended load, special platforms are welded to the ends of the supports. They reduce pressure on the ground. In their upper part, the platforms are slightly curved, thereby expanding the distances between them. This allows larger pots to be hung.

Round

Very easy to use and designed for almost all cauldrons. This is an excellent solution for stewing dishes.

and cooking real pilaf over an open fire. This tripod is suitable not only for the garden, but also for trips to nature. Relatives and friends will appreciate how convenient it is to install such a design and how it will allow any cookware to quickly heat up over the fire.

A stand for a cauldron with a volume of about twelve liters will have a base diameter of about forty centimeters. The height of such a structure is usually forty-five centimeters.

A stand for dishes with a volume of twenty to twenty-five centimeters, has a diameter of fifty centimeters and the same height.

Folding

When folded, this lightweight and compact design measures only fifty centimeters. Her legs are assembled from two parts that are inserted into each other. This made it possible to reduce the size of the tripod. It will not take up much space in the trunk of a car. The tubular design of these legs ensures that the weight of this tripod is very light.

Such designs have a special hook, which is attached to a chain that is adjustable in length. Due to this, you can adjust the change in height

placement of a cauldron or other utensils over the fire.

Folding or collapsible structures are designed mainly for cauldrons from four to ten liters. The width of tripods for such cauldrons is usually eighty centimeters, and the height is about ninety.

With two hooks

This is a fairly simple design that allows tourists to use not only a cauldron, but a kettle or a pot at the same time.

Hiking methods for hanging a pot

There are many ways to hang a pot over a fire; let’s look at the most common ones.

Using two flyers and a crossbar

This is the most preferred option for hanging a bowler. It is quite reliable and extremely simple to manufacture, since finding a couple of branches with a fork will not be difficult even on the banks of a river or lake. Branches with flyers can not be sharpened, but simply buried in the ground.

If possible, it is advisable to have several metal hooks of different lengths in stock, on which you can hang the pot at the desired height. Hooks will not only allow you to regulate the degree of heating of the pot during cooking, but will also facilitate the process of removing the pot from the crossbar.

It is noteworthy that you can get by with just one hook with a complex bend shape. It bends easily in two directions, and this allows you to change its length.

Such a universal hook does not take up any space even in a backpack and is useful for many purposes in hiking conditions.

Using one flyer and a long pole

This method is also quite often used by nature lovers, although it is inferior in reliability to the previous option. To hang a pot using this method, you will need a long pole, that is, a fairly thick stick, and only one flyer.

The pole must be sharpened and secured in the ground. To ensure reliability, the pointed end of the stick should be pressed down with a heavy stone.

Naturally, the structure being installed must first be tested without a fire and with a pot, which is still filled with ordinary water.

Wooden tripod

A wooden tripod for a pot will require a piece of steel cable or metal chain, as well as a hook.

In addition, three approximately identical and sufficiently long poles are needed. A kind of pyramid is built from them, and the assembled structure is installed over the fire. The upper junction of the poles is connected with wire or part of the hanging chain.

It should be especially emphasized that the phrase “make a tripod” that is often found on the Internet is absolutely illiterate. It is a tripod and nothing else - this type of tripod with three support legs is called.

In addition to the simplest hanging devices listed above, which are necessary for a cauldron, various stands for this vessel from scrap materials are often used.

Such a stand for a pot can be constructed from stones, driftwood soaked in water, leaky buckets, metal barrels, and so on.

It is also quite affordable to purchase a modern industrial tripod, not only in Moscow, but in almost any city.

But a do-it-yourself tripod for a pot is the most acceptable solution to the problem of hanging a pot.

How to choose a tripod?

To select the optimal tripod design, the following requirements must be taken into account:

You should definitely take into account that tripods for the cauldron should be selected taking into account the diameter and volume of the existing dishes;
You should also consider the height of the stand;
Those who are going on a hike without a vehicle need to consider what material the tripod is made of. The cast iron construction is stable, will last a long time, but weighs quite a lot. In this case, it is recommended to choose a tripod for the cauldron made of stainless steel. They are quite durable and lightweight.

Alternative tripod solutions

Stoves for cauldrons are designed so that any cauldron will heat up evenly on all sides.

and stay steady. This is the key to proper preparation of the dish and its excellent taste.

The design of the stove under the cauldron is simple. In appearance, it resembles a cylinder that has special legs. The container fits quite deep into it. This product is coated mainly with heat-resistant paint, which ensures its resistance to corrosion.

Having such a camping attribute as a tripod under a cauldron, any traveler or summer resident will be able to prepare an excellent dinner without unnecessary fuss or any work.