Whistle made from tin bottle caps. The simplest whistle made from sheet metal with your own hands Do-it-yourself whistle made from tin

Anyone can assemble such a whistle. It will take no more than half an hour to make for a beginner. An experienced DIYer can assemble such a whistle in less than 10 minutes if he has the necessary materials and tools. This whistle is quite easy to blow and is quite loud. Alternatively, the whistle can be made from a sheet of copper or aluminum and then polished, just like a piece of jewelry can be engraved. It will be a pretty stylish homemade product.

Materials and tools for homemade work: - thin sheet metal (suitable from a tin can); - paper; - pliers; — scissors (you can work with a tin can with ordinary scissors, however, they will become dull); - pen, felt-tip pen, pencil or nail (or another writing instrument).

Let's move on to making the whistle:

Step one. Homemade drawing

There are two different drawings in total; you can make a whistle according to any one you like.
If you don’t want to draw everything, then the drawings can be printed on a printer, the scales are saved. Step two.
Material for the whistle In general, ideally, the metal for the whistle should be slightly thicker than that of a tin can.
If you couldn’t find one, then an ordinary tin can will do for these purposes. By the way, you can also use drink cans, but the metal there is very thin and soft, so the whistle will be fragile, and it will be problematic to whistle with it. However, the author managed to make a whistle from such metal. Step three.
Transferring a drawing After the drawing is drawn or printed on a printer, it needs to be cut out.
Next, this paper template must be attached to a sheet of metal and outlined with a felt-tip pen or scratched with a nail. After this, the workpiece can be cut with ordinary scissors, but it is better to use old ones, otherwise they will quickly become dull. Step four.
Formation of the whistle The difference between the two whistles shown in the drawings is only in their front part. This is what the first type of whistle looks like. And this is what the second type of whistle looks like. The only difference is how the petals are bent. To form a gap you will need a strip of metal of the required width. It is placed on the workpiece, and then you can bend the edges. In the photo, the shaded part is the same strip of metal around which the petals bend.

At the final stage, you need to work with pliers, you need to squeeze the edges thoroughly so that the formed gap has a strictly rectangular shape. Well, then the sheet of metal can be removed.

Now you can start creating the cylindrical part. To do this, the remaining part needs to be bent in the form of a ring. To do this, you need to use some kind of cylindrical object. If the metal from which the whistle is made is thick, the edge will need to be sharpened.

That's it, the whistle is ready.
To whistle, the edges of the whistle must be pressed between the thumb and forefinger to form an almost closed cylinder. Step five.
Setting up the whistle It happens that a homemade whistle does not whistle the first time, but this is not a big deal, it still needs to be set up. The ring part must be bent in different directions until a whistle appears. You can also try adjusting the width of the gap “b”.

Similarly, you can set the desired whistle tone. If the sound is not heard, this does not mean that the whistle is assembled incorrectly; it is quite possible that it emits ultrasound, which we cannot hear.

You can also see in the video below how you can whistle using your fingers.

According to the author, such a whistle whistles much louder than a plastic one. It is also quickly and easily assembled from scrap materials. If desired, you can place a ball inside the whistle, and it will turn into a football one.

To make a round pipe yourself, you will need black or galvanized sheet steel, 0.45 - 0.5 - 0.55 mm thick. This thickness of material is sufficient for low-pressure or domestic ventilation, exhaust hoods from gas equipment, and drainage systems. On a sheet of metal, using a sharp metal scriber and a long ruler, draw a pattern for the future pipe. Measure the length of the workpiece equal to the length of the pipe. If the pipe will be inserted into the next one, then add the length of the “bolt” to the length of the workpiece (for example, 7 cm). Calculate the width of the pattern by multiplying 3.14 by the internal diameter of the pipe in millimeters: D * 3.14 (mm). To the resulting size, add allowances for the seam joint - 14 mm on both sides, or 28 mm to the width of the pattern on either side. The final formula for the width of the workpiece: 3.14D+28 (mm). Cut the outlined blank from the sheet using hand-held metal scissors.

Along the length of the workpiece, mark out and bend two edges in different directions for the seam connection of the pipe. The width of the folded edges is 7 mm. These edges can also be bent obliquely, for example: for one end of the future pipe 7 mm, and for the other end - 9 mm (or 6 by 8 mm). Then the pipes will be easily and fairly tightly inserted into one another. The sequence for preparing a seam connection is shown in the figure:

To give a straight sheet of tin the shape of a pipe, you will need a thick-walled metal pipe with a diameter of 80 - 100 mm, suspended horizontally from a board or from a flat wall in two “clamps” made of thin-sheet steel strips, as shown in the following figure. Place the pipe pattern with the prepared folds into the gap between the board and the suspended pipe, and gradually bend it around the mandrel pipe to the desired shape, after each bend pushing (pushing) the workpiece down:

Remove the workpiece from the device, check how correctly and evenly it is “rolled” into the shape of a pipe. Fasten the folds into the lock. Make sure that both folded edges fit securely into each other along the entire length of the joint. Place the folded workpiece (or part of it) onto the section of the rail extended beyond the workbench. Seal the seam of the pipe with a wooden mallet. Place the material along the entire seam, that is, cut it with the edge of a hammer or mallet, thus creating an additional lock that will prevent the folded edges from moving out of the joint. The reliability of the assembly can be ensured with a rivet.

Straighten any unevenness and possible ribbing in the homemade pipe on the rail using a wooden mallet. Choose sheet steel for the manufacture of pipe products that does not leave a trace at all, or leaves an inconspicuous mark on the surface when it is bent and unbent. This property of the metal can be checked by slightly bending and immediately unbending the sheet metal in the corner of the sheet. If rolled material is used to make a pipe, or a galvanized sheet clearly cut from a roll, then it should be cut so that the direction of bending or rolling the workpiece coincides with the direction of the rolled roll - this will reduce the appearance of ribs along the deflection lines. The optimal pipe length is 1 m or 1.25 meters, which coincides with the transverse dimensions of standard tin sheets.

The mechanized production of thin-sheet steel pipes is carried out on machines in various ways, which are briefly described on the page.

Tinplate is a material that belongs to rolled products. This is a variety. After rolling, the sheet is treated with anti-corrosion substances.

In order to make such a pipe you will need only 2-3 tools

For heating equipment, you can make tin pipes for the chimney yourself

. This material is elastic, so it is processed manually. In addition, steel is characterized by rigidity and strength, so tin products of special strength are made from it.

Which tin should you choose?

How to make a pipe out of tin? What kind of tin is best suited for this type of work?

Thin tin is an excellent material for homemade bathhouses and smokehouses. Tin is a thin sheet of steel that is susceptible to corrosion. Galvanized roofing iron is used to make beautiful, as well as weather vanes, canopies over, covers over, or original filigree laces.

Tip: tin pipes can also be used as samovars; they increase draft well and also remove smoke.

What tools are needed?

Before you start making a tin pipe with your own hands, you need to take care of the tools and materials that you will need.

Making tin pipes with your own hands involves using the following:

sheet of thin galvanized iron roofing (thickness 0.5-0.7 mm);
scissors for cutting metal;
metal strip;
wooden hammer (mallet);
simple hammer;
pliers.

Advice: in order for a tin pipe to turn out beautiful and even, it is necessary to take a sheet of iron with a smooth and even surface, and also so that the corners are straight, and not torn or unevenly cut.

Homemade whistle

Now we will try to make with you the simplest wooden homemade whistle.
With our own hands, in the presence of the child, and even let him take part in the process a little. Believe me, for him to watch the process of the birth of a toy will be a real miracle! So, we need a knife and a smooth willow rod, 7-10 millimeters thick. Why willow? Because you can very easily remove the bark from a willow twig without damaging it. And this, as we will see later, is very important for us.

Willow is a plant with brittle branches, which means you don’t have to damage a living plant. It is enough just to take a walk under a willow tree after a fresh breeze to collect a bunch of branches, exactly what we need.

Step 1. Cutting a suitable rod

We select a branch with intact and even bark (this is a very important condition), if possible, without knots. Now we need to find a flat section 4-7 centimeters long on this branch. There may be buds in this area (this is common for willow), but in no case should there be any knots.

Now we cut the branch along the border of a flat area. At the other end of the section, we make a circular cut. The cut should be deep enough and lightly (just lightly) cling to the wood. To make sure that the entire layer of bark is really cut through, you can remove a ring 1-2 millimeters thick.

Step 2. “Rolling” the branch

After this, we begin to lightly “tap” the bark with a small hammer in a circle in all places. Instead of a hammer, you can use the handle of a knife. Instead of tapping, you can also “roll” the twig. This is done so that the bark subsequently peels off from the wood more easily.

Step 3. Removing the bark

We make a cutout on the branch. After this, carefully, using rotational movements, we try to remove the bark from the branch without damaging it. There is no need to rush; if the bark does not come off, you need to knock on it again and try again. In the end, it will definitely come off.

Step 4. Preparing parts

Now carefully cut off the “round piece” from the branch remaining without bark with a knife, just along the line of our cutout.

Then we cut off the round barrel.

Don’t try to cut it absolutely straight, it won’t work anyway. Yes, we actually don’t need this. If the cut turns out to be wedge-shaped, as in our picture, this is only for the better - it will be easier to regulate the sound.

Step 5. Assembling the Whistle

We insert the cut round piece into its original place, cut side up. If our cut is oblique, then we place it at the bottleneck to the hole.

Step 6. Sound Settings

Now, attention. We clamp the open end of the resulting tube and blow into it quite strongly from the side of the round. The result will be a distinct whistle. True, its timbre may not be very beautiful.

No problem, we will adjust it now.

We cut off the remaining end of the stick, insert it into the open end of the tube and move the stick back and forth to select the most pleasant timbre of the whistle. Then we cut off the protruding part of the branch and the whistle is ready!

Attention! Our whistle makes a pretty loud whistle. Therefore, the best place for exercise is a dacha or a country house, but not a city apartment.

And finally, one piece of advice. If you manage to find a willow twig with a sufficiently long section of smooth bark, 10-15 centimeters, then instead of a whistle you can make a simple pipe. It is made in exactly the same way as a whistle, but instead of selecting the timbre of the sound, simply plug the open end with a wooden stopper, and in the remaining space, make 3-4 holes in the bark, so that they can be plugged with your fingers at the same time. By opening one or another hole one by one, we can reproduce the simplest melodies. Of course, our notes will not correspond to the natural scale, but we don’t need it. The main thing is that the melody is pleasant.

Instructions for making a tin pipe

How to make a pipe out of tin? Where to begin?

Making pipes from tin begins with drawing up a drawing. Draw an unfolded pattern of the future pipe on an iron sheet.

Tip: the pipe pattern can be drawn with chalk or any sharp object.

When marking a pattern, the following points must be taken into account:

the width of the workpiece should be equal to the diameter of the pipe plus an additional one and a half centimeters;
the length of the workpiece is slightly longer than the straight section of the pipe.

Using metal scissors, cut off the drawn pipe blank.
Place the workpiece on the edge of the workbench.
Along the length of the iron sheet, draw a fold line on one side; it should be half a centimeter.
Align the line drawn with the edge of the corner on the layout.
Using a mallet, bend the edge of the sheet of iron down.
Turn the sheet over and, with light blows of a mallet, bend the edge to the sheet.
Turn the workpiece over and on the other side bend the edge 1 centimeter wide, but in the other direction.
Fold the edge again, so in profile this bend will look like the letter L.
Insert the workpiece into the mandrel, carefully bend the edges of the pipe towards each other.

Tip: you can use a mandrel - this is a sector or template of a pipe of the required diameter, but you can do without it.

Connect the edges into a lock so that the smaller edge hooks onto the larger edge.
Seal the edge using pliers.
Using a hammer and an iron bar, lay the edge on the sheet and tap it well.

The edges of a tin pipe can also be fastened using steel, aluminum or tin rivets.

Drill holes for the rivets at a distance of three centimeters.
Bend the edges at right angles towards each other.
Bend the sheet of tin blank in the opposite direction so that the edges are located on the outside of the pipe.
secure the edges with rivets.

Tip: a DIY tin pipe fastened in this way is not very convenient to use. The result is a not very attractive external seam, which has to be hidden when installing the pipe.

We make a galvanized iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm

1. Cut a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe fits into the next one according to the “male-male” principle.

It makes sense to immediately mark the entire sheet and lay down the segments on each side in turn - on one side 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If you do not plan to connect the finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this, use a mallet to bend the edges of the sheet 7 mm on both sides, 90° in different directions relative to each other, on a metal corner.

3. Turn the workpiece over, turn the corner up and use a mallet to achieve the angle to approximately 130-150°.

4. Make another bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. Using a mallet, tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, dense and confident. In this case, the mallet must lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. The end result will be a sheet with the following folds along the edges:

6. We squeeze the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends to each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and hit it with a mallet at the place where the corners meet until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate joining with each other, and roll rings on both ends to ensure rigidity; however, the resulting pipe is suitable for use. If no mistakes are made during marking, then it will easily fit with other elements, including factory-made ones.

Finally, it should be noted that gutters are not the only use for such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their use everywhere, so the ability to make them yourself will serve you well in saving money more than once.

Evgeny Dubinin, rmnt.ru (based on materials from user MamaKatya)

With the use of new technologies in construction, the need to use tin pipes is gradually disappearing, but the question of how to make a pipe from tin is of interest to people who like to do everything in the house with their own hands.

Features of working with tin

To give the sheet metal material the required pipe shape, you need to bend it using pliers or a hammer around an object of the appropriate cylindrical shape. You can make your own tin pipes using a metal or wooden cylinder.

Advice: the bend of the sheet metal should be even along its entire length; this can be achieved by lightly tapping with a hammer, and the blows should be as close to each other as possible.

Making tin pipes is impossible without using metal shears. It will be much easier to work with such a tool if you attach a leather loop to its handle. The metal is cut with one hand, putting a leather loop on the fingers.
The edge of a sheet of iron after cutting with scissors can be cleaned with a plow made from a small old piece of hacksaw blade.
A drainpipe made of tin, which is already ready for installation, in some cases needs to be cut (for example, when it is necessary to make a curved edge of the pipe for drainage). To do this, it will be convenient to cut the pipe with a knife, which is intended for opening canned food.

Advice: in order for the pipe to be cut well with a knife, you first need to cut it with a hacksaw, and only then use the knife.

When working with tin, you sometimes have to use a file. Very often it becomes clogged with metal filings and quickly fails. In order to clean it, you can use a copper spatula or a soft metal tube, while flattening its end.

It is not very difficult to make tin pipes with your own hands, the main thing is to follow these recommendations and be extremely careful, as you can get injured by the sharp edges of the tin sheet cut off.

The joining of the edges of thin sheet metal is most often done in a lock - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which may be needed more often in the work of a young master. These are the methods.

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile method, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt connection (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is required. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). This is actually done not by tinsmiths, but by coppersmiths - craftsmen who make copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. A butt joint can be made more durable by soldering a plate (3) on the inside. This will be a butt with an overlay. A more durable connection is an overlap (4). One edge is overlapped with the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and compress them with blows of a mallet. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It's done like this. One piece's edge is bent at a right angle, the second's edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when connecting in this way. The sequential progress of work is schematically depicted in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use connections using rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, eyelet, strip, etc. Occasionally, rivets are used to strengthen the seams into an overlay and a simple lock. They are usually riveted with small rivets, preferably with wide flat heads, using a cold method. For rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes of different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up into a pound using a hammer or pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft, but, of course, do not have the neat appearance of solid rivets.

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will be detrimental to the work. How and why will be seen later.

The main and very first job of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since further processes depend on it. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam connections, for edges, for inserting bottoms, and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten in any way. If the metal is flattened in the bend, it will expand. The edge of the fold will come out curved and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is bent wide, this has almost no significance. But where greater precision and grace are required, it will be very noticeable. Let us explain with an example what we can achieve. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They bent the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that the seam is very difficult to connect; the folds turned out to be bent due to riveting the metal with a hammer.

Therefore, folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a crowbar, iron strip or corner of a scraper.

The work happens in this order. First of all, draw a fold line with a thicknesser. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the fold can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet metal the fold is 3-5 mm). Place the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) along the fold line, and with quick and precise blows with a mallet, beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, place it with the outer side on the anvil and straighten it with the inner side with blows of the mallet.

Let's assume that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the folded fold will be larger than the diameter of its inner circumference. Consequently, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge and weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in the left hand, the width of the bend is marked from the inside with a thicknesser and applied to the edge of the support or crowbar at an obtuse angle, after which it is struck on the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having gone around the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper towards the anvil, and continue working in the same order. It is repeated again and again, decreasing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such gradual knocking out, the fold will be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the slab and straightened with blows of a mallet.

To such a cylinder with a rebate, you can already attach the bottom with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom you need to bend the rebate or solder the bottom with solder.

Just as the fold on a cylinder is bent, this is also done when the edge of a tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The bend should come out smooth, you need to make a flap on the metal, calculating the width of this flap based on the thickness of the wire that will fit there.

The width should be approximately three times the diameter of the wire, adding a little for the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they place it on the stove, insert the wire and secure it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. Using a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, the lapel is finally pressed and smoothed. Turning the product over with the edge up, straighten the rolled edge on top. If the lapel turns out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing it from above with a mallet and pulling the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

Among the techniques for processing thin metal, based on riveting and pulling out metal, a young master should definitely become familiar with hammering. By hammering out a flat piece of metal, it is given a variety of convex shapes. In this way, you can knock out the bottoms and covers of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for model airplanes, skins for model ships, etc. Above we already had a similar job - this knocking out a bucket.

Tapping is a job that requires patience. You can't hit it once or twice with a hammer and get a good draw. It is necessary to slowly tap with a hammer, constantly moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light blows.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first method is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are beaten out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the appropriate shape.

As an example, let’s take the beating out of the same bucket. On a wooden stick or thick board, you need to make several round notches of varying depths. They are cut with a semicircular chisel and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer. A round piece of metal is placed over the first recess and hammered out with a hammer or round mallet until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in subsequent, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will obtain a bucket according to the profile of the matrix. With a different profile and a different cutting we could get a different shape.

Sometimes the young master will have to knock out longitudinal grooves on thin metal plates. The cross section of such a plate will be shaped, and the plate will acquire rigidity.

As in any other business, marking and cutting the material, starting work, is a very important operation on which further success depends. It is clear from this that this work requires special care and accuracy. The simplest job is to cut and make a simple open rectangular box with straight or radiating sides, with or without a toe.

A rectangle of appropriate dimensions is cut out from a sheet of tin (a). When cutting, you need to take into account the bottom area and the height of the walls. Using a thicknesser, draw a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over onto the board, use the toe of a hammer to cut off the bisectors of the corners at the corners approximately to the border of the future folds of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, bend the sides (c) onto the edge of the anvil (piece of iron), but not completely. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains unbent; it is slightly flattened, making a groove out of it. The box is ready (d).

The work, as you can see, is not at all difficult, but it must be done carefully.

Cutting out and making cylindrical shapes will not present any particular difficulties. For the cylinder, you need to cut out a rectangle with a height equal to the future pipe, and a length of 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe, with an increase for rolling the seam.

When making conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all working techniques will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in the scan, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the simplest cutting method. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its middle section along the axis. It will appear in the form of a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, part of which will be used to make the surface of the conical bucket. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add more to roll up the top edge and fold the bottom.

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. About three diameters with an increase for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Setting aside 3.14 times the diameter of the outer hole or bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, draw a line along the radius. The increases for the double lock are made parallel to these radial lines. This will result in cutting out the surface of the bucket. Any conical shape, be it a whole or a truncated cone, is precisely drawn in the same way: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the sweep length is plotted along the circumference.

Let's move on to making the whistle:

Step one. Homemade drawing

At the final stage, you need to work with pliers, you need to squeeze the edges thoroughly so that the formed gap has a strictly rectangular shape. Well, then the sheet of metal can be removed.

You can also see in the video below how you can whistle using your fingers.

Every residential or even country house or bathhouse that is not connected to a central heating system is equipped with a heat-generating device. To remove the products of fuel combustion in the firebox from the interior, a smoke exhaust duct is connected to them. The most affordable option is a galvanized chimney; in construction stores the price of 1 m of pipe made of this material is about 110 rubles. If you add to this the costs of the rotating elements, deflector and brackets, installation will cost a pretty penny. However, in this article we will tell you how to reduce costs by 60% and how to make a chimney from a steel pipe with your own hands.

The advantage of store-bought models of galvanized steel chimneys is that manufacturers produce a wide range of sizes. In addition, among the factory products you can find double-circuit, thermally insulated, corrugated, with increased flexibility and single-circuit. When making a homemade chimney, you have to limit yourself to only single-circuit pipes. In order for the smoke removal system to work effectively, the following parameters should be taken into account:

Important! A sheet of galvanized steel measuring 2500x125 mm in construction stores costs about 600 rubles, with proper cutting, one sheet produces 8.75 m of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, the cost of 1 m is approximately 68 rubles, which gives 60% savings!

How to fix a whistle if it's broken

If you bought a low-quality device, you can repair it by following these steps:

You need to take the casing that contains the whistle and use a screwdriver to remove it.
The next step is to remove the spring and prepare the surface for further work. To prepare the surface, you need to clean it.
When you get to soldering you will need soldering acid. After the surface has been prepared, you can begin soldering, and then clean the parts from any dirt adhering to them.
The last step in this process is neutralization. You need to use lye. In addition to alkali, you can use alcohol, but remember that this procedure must be carried out outdoors. This must be done carefully so as not to harm your health. To neutralize the craft, place it in a glass and pour approximately 10 or 25% alcohol into it.

By following these rules, you can easily repair your whistle or make a new one!

Basically, you can buy a regular whistle and tape it to the spout of the kettle...

Most likely it whistles from the cap that fits on the spout, here is an approximate diagram of such a cap, it whistles because the air swirls. The pea is no longer used now, or rather very rarely, but with the pea the whistle was more fun...

The whistle comes from the whistle. Usually this is a narrow hole in the stopper in the spout or in the lid of the kettle. Water boils, expands and turns into steam. He has nowhere to go, he looks for a way out and finds it through the spout if there is not enough water, or through the whistle in the lid of the kettle. In a system of narrow passages, steam under pressure produces a high, sharp sound.

The whistle, of course, comes from a whistle. And it occurs when steam, generated when a liquid boils, passes through the whistle. Excess pressure arises in the cavity of the kettle, which is released through the whistle. And the whistle doesn’t care what passes through it: clean air or steam. This is how we know that the kettle has boiled.

There is a whistle on the spout of the kettle. When we whistle on a regular whistle, we thereby create air pressure in it, as a result of which, under the influence of air vibration, a whistle is produced. In a kettle it is hot steam, which quot;irritatesquot; whistle.

The teapot whistle itself, which is located on its spout, whistles; when it fits tightly to the spout of the kettle, it prevents the rapid release of steam from the kettle, and the steam has to pass through a small gap in the whistle, as a result of which the whistle occurs. The circuit is very simple, and the higher the pressure in the kettle, the stronger the whistle.

There is a whistle in the spout. When boiling and boiling, steam escapes through the spout and a whistle is produced (louder with strong boiling). By analogy, as if a person blew into a whistle, there would also be a flow of air directed into the whistle.

Any air flow at high speed creates a whistle. This is a natural phenomenon and is used in whistling kettles.

Heated water vapor, passing through the thin channels of the whistle, significantly increases its speed. Moreover, the speed of steam in the whistle becomes so high that this whistle appears.

Any sound is a vibration of air. The human ear is not capable of picking up all vibrations, but it can hear a whistle from a kettle perfectly!

You can do an experiment. Take a thin rod or fishing line with a weight. Unwind the fishing line in front of you, and simply wave the vine like a saber. In both cases, you will hear a whistle, which is a consequence of the appearance of sound waves.

The same goes for a whistle in a kettle. In the picture of the whistle provided here, you can see that the whistle has channels that narrow in one place. According to Bernoulli's law, high steam velocity occurs in this bottleneck. And since there is speed, there will be sound.

This is written in more detail in the physics textbook for the 6th grade. I don't remember everything anymore.

The whistle occurs when steam from the kettle passes through a narrowed hole in the whistle.

In this case, excess pressure arises and the whistle body itself resonates. The whistle device can be seen in the picture:

If you take the whistle apart and then put a plastic ball about the size of a pea into it, the whistle will turn out to be more hooligan or will look like a police whistle.

When the water in the kettle boils, it goes into a gaseous state, turning into water vapor. At the same time, it expands and requires much more space. The steam is looking for this place in the kettle, it rushes to the spout. And since our kettle has a whistle, there is a special device installed on its nose :), the so-called valve. The steam passes through the narrow passages of this valve and produces a whistling sound.

We even have a game like this: the kettle whistles on the kuna, and there is no one nearby, then everyone tries to be the first to say: quot; They have come to you!quot; Those who didn’t have time go to turn off the kettle.)

This whistling kettle is made from the handle of a nightstand drawer. It just so happens that due to its relatively large size, it has an unconventional scale for a doll miniature: 1 to 10. In addition, the kettle whistle does not whistle, and this, as you understand, does not suit me at all.

I am showing it as a teaching aid for beginning teapot makers and other modelers, as an example of the use of scrap materials and household items in the manufacture of doll miniatures.

Materials used in the production of the kettle: - a handle from a drawer (the main part is the body), - a piece of a radio antenna, - a button on an automatic ballpoint pen, - two pins with balls at the end, - a battery, - a tin can, - electrical wire insulation, - wire from packaging of a children's toy, - epoxy glue, - silver marker.

All these necessary parts and materials were found without leaving the apartment.

Brief description of the process:

1. We examine the workpiece from all sides, wondering whether to stop doing nonsense and screw the drawer handle into place before your family notices its absence.

2. Using a hacksaw, we saw off the excess part of the workpiece that protrudes beyond what is permitted.

3. Drill out the inner cavity of the kettle, being careful not to drill through it.

4. Drill a hole for the spout.

5. From one of the tubes of the telescopic antenna from the radio, we cut out a spout, which we paint on the inside with a silver marker (the antennas of household radios are usually made of brass and are yellow on the inside).

6. Using epoxy glue, glue the spout into the body of the kettle.

7. We clean the jar of condensed milk from the label and internal contents, cut out the bottom and, cutting lengthwise, straighten it, obtaining the tin necessary for further experiments.

8. By hitting a bolt with a semicircular head from tin with a hammer, we form a blank for the teapot lid, which we then cut out with ordinary office scissors (ordinary scissors are not as durable as scissors for metal, but several times cheaper and, for small jobs, much more convenient).

9. While searching for the inside of the lid, it turned out that the diameter of the hole in the neck of the kettle almost corresponds to a used battery from a children's music book.

10. Carefully file the battery lengthwise. Careful - because, firstly, you may be noticed by green, blue or other colorful individuals from the Battery Protection Society. Secondly, there are various minerals inside, which it is advisable to dispose of so that they do not fall into the hands and stomachs of our smaller, middle and older brothers too.

11. Divide the battery into two parts. We set aside the inner part; it will be useful to us in one of the subsequent projects.

12. In the center of the outer part of the battery, hit a needle clamped in pliers with a hammer and make a thin hole.

13. In the same way we make a hole in the lid of our kettle.

14. We glue the parts of the lid with epoxy glue and place them on a needle, the excess part of which, after the glue has dried, we bite off with wire cutters.

15. From the button of an automatic ballpoint pen, we saw off the metal cap from which the whistle will be made.

16. To try to give the whistle a semicircular shape from the end, we use a ball from a bearing.

17. By hitting a nail with a sawn-off tip that rests on the ball with a hammer, a recess is squeezed out in the whistle blank.

18. A hole is made in the whistle, into which a piece of pin (about 1.5 mm long) with a ball is inserted, as in the lid. The pin is secured from the inside with glue. (the fastening, I must say, is unreliable and became loose during the photo shoot, I will try to solder).

19. From the same tin from the can we cut out blanks for the handle.

20. Use a needle to make holes for the rivets and use a file to give the parts a shape that could not be obtained with scissors.

21. For the plastic part of the kettle handle we use a piece of copper wire insulation.

22. We give the handle blanks the required shape and insert them into the insulation tube.

Surely, everyone will appreciate the functionality of the kettle whistle, which lets us know that the water is ready for preparing hot drinks and does not allow the vessel to boil in vain. However, it happens that these useful things are lost, broken or simply missing when purchasing a kettle. In this case, you need to know how to make a whistle for a kettle with your own hands. Craftsmen are coming up with various ways to make useful devices for home teapots from scrap materials with a minimal set of tools, so let's look at the most interesting options together.

Manufacturing

To make a pipe from a sheet of galvanized steel, you will need a rubber or wooden mallet that is heavy enough to bend the metal. In the process of work, scissors are used for cutting metal, a long ruler, a scriber for marking, a corner and a “gun” for bending. The bending process occurs as follows:

Note! The installation of a chimney requires rotating parts, which are made by cutting straight pipes at an angle. If you cut the pipes at an angle of 75 degrees, then when joining, you get a 150-degree turn; if you cut them at an angle of 45 degrees, you get a 90-degree turn. To improve the efficiency of a homemade chimney, it is wrapped in non-flammable thermal insulation material.

Advantages

With the advent of a large number of factory products for assembling galvanized steel chimneys, the need to make pipes with your own hands has decreased. However, homemade pipes allow you to reduce costs and choose the ideal diameter.

In addition, they are used to equip drains, so the ability to make pipes with your own hands will be useful in everyday life. Metal chimneys have the following advantages over others:

A light weight. Smoke exhaust ducts made from homemade galvanized pipes weigh much less than brick or ceramic ones. Therefore, there is no need to equip a foundation, the cost of pouring which exceeds the cost of material and installation work.
Fire safety. According to building codes, steel chimneys are completely fire safe. High quality metal can withstand heating up to 900 degrees, so it is suitable even for solid fuel stoves and fireplaces.
Low cost. Chimney pipes made of steel are the most democratic way to organize smoke removal; the cost of installation is several times lower than the installation of brick and ceramic analogues.
Easy to assemble. You can easily assemble a chimney made of galvanized steel with your own hands according to the instructions, thereby saving money spent on hiring professional workers.

Important! The effectiveness of smoke removal depends on the correct assembly of the chimney. Experienced craftsmen advise choosing a predominantly vertical configuration with the least number of turns. Each rotating element acts as an obstacle to the smoke, reducing the draft force.

The whistle is ready

Having figured out how to make a whistle, you should start testing it. But you should not only try the whistle, but also adjust the sound. Press the free end of the bark tube with your fingers, then blow into it as hard as possible. As a result, we will hear a whistle. Of course, it may not work the first time. Everything can be adjusted. Cut off a piece of the remaining branch and insert it into the free end of the bark tube. By moving it back and forth, you can adjust the strength and frequency of the whistle.

Now you know how to make a wooden whistle yourself. By analogy, you can make a more complex version of the whistle - a flute. To do this, you will need a stick of the same thickness, but longer - 10-12 cm. We also remove the bark and get a cylinder from it. Here, instead of one round cut, you need to make 3-4 cuts. By plugging the open end of the tube with a stick, you can adjust the timbre of the sound using forward movements. By covering the holes with your fingers, you can play simple but pleasant melodies.

Once you learn how to make a whistle, you can make it quickly and in no time. After all, all you need is the right branch and a simple knife. This skill is especially useful for adults who want to please their children with such a toy. By spending very little time and effort, you can please your child, giving him a lot of positive emotions.

Assembly Rules

To properly assemble a chimney made of galvanized steel, you must first mark out the layout and laying of the pipe. Using this drawing, you should determine how many pipes are required and cut them into sections of the required length. Assembly is performed as follows:

Note! The smoke exhaust duct is installed on the roof at a distance of 30-50 cm from the ridge. To ensure the level of traction, the skate should be 50 cm higher. Incorrect placement on the roof can cause backdraft or wind backlash.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequentially rolling the workpiece through the rollers of a rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the finished product warehouse receives steel sheets, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note! The material turns out to be very plastic, which allows it to be processed at home. On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is not inferior in strength to thicker steel.

Considering that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to manufacture many different parts of complex shapes.

DIY kettle whistle

There are many ways to make a whistle for dummies at home. All you need is a little free time, materials and, of course, desire. Let's look at the most interesting ways.

Metal whistle

It will be shaped like a short cylinder. The top part can take on different designs. First of all, you should take metal without signs of corrosion. After this, you can proceed to the following actions:

Cut two circles and a rectangle for the cylinder;
Connect these parts into a whole.

Cork

You can also make an excellent whistle for a teapot with your own hands, using just ordinary stoppers that you use to close lemonade or water bottles every day. To do this you will need to follow a few simple steps:

Take two corks and connect them into one;
Cut a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

Be careful when using this method, you need to make a large cylinder of metal that sits between the plugs.

From a toy whistle

The version of a children's whistle is suitable for teapots with thin spouts. It is located on it, covering the entire surface. And if the kettle has a wide nose, then a metal glass is better suited for it, in which you will need to drill a hole using a regular drill.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the metal. A whistle made of high-quality metal will serve you for a very long time and with great efficiency.

Do not use aluminum or plastic material for the whistle under any circumstances!

These materials are not resistant to high temperatures.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it would be useful to arm yourself with special tools and devices, the list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal scissors	Used to cut sheet metal into pieces of the required size. The maximum thickness of the material, as you know, is 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber hammer, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with pliers.
Crafting table	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place the sheet of tin on a flat surface. It is best to use a carpentry workbench, but cutting can also be done on a floor cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by a thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or round wood) and a steel corner 75 mm wide. It is secured to the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make a longitudinal pipe seam.
Marker	Used for marking sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Required tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we will need the following tools and materials:

Wooden or rubber mallet. Generally speaking, the quality of the finished product will primarily depend on the quality of this tool. The mallet should be heavy enough, but such that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that they are convenient for cutting metal on large surfaces.
A metal corner at least 1 m long, installed on the edge of the workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bent, so it must be stable and quite massive.
A steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - a “gun”. Products will be assembled there. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
Ruler.
Metal scriber. Any sharpened metal rod, up to a large nail, will do.
Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal itself is 0.5 mm thick.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

Preparation. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a circular pipe occurs.
Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

No complicated instructions are needed here, everything is very simple:

the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the top edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the top edge of the sheet;
on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (and 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
All marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice! Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) using the well-known formula L = π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.
Scheme of bending a tin sheet to form a pipe
A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then its edge is carefully bent with blows of a rubber hammer. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the bottom plane of the angle.
Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To make the procedure easier, you can use pliers.
Then another bend is made on the centimeter fold in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to make markings for this bend in advance.
After finishing work with the folds, we move on to working on the pipe itself. For this purpose, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the folded edges meet.
Step 3. Docking
All that remains is to align the edges and secure the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is folded down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe using a mallet.
The bend must be made in the direction opposite to the L-shaped fold, otherwise water may get under the seam and, as a result, into the inner space of the pipe.
When working with tin, it is advisable to consider the following points:
It will be more comfortable to work with metal scissors if you attach a leather loop to one of the handles
, which is put on your fingers.
It is advisable to process the cut edge with a plow made from an old blade for a hacksaw for metal
. This will free the cut from burrs that could cause injury.
You can use a can opener to shorten the finished vent pipe.
.

How to make a whistle out of paper

Even a kindergartener can make a paper whistle. True, the thing will be short-lived, but it will whistle a lot.

Take a sheet of office paper and cut one third of it horizontally.
Set aside 1.5 cm to the right and left of the wide part, draw lines and crease them.
Fold the figure in half so that the strips folded on the sides go to the outside. Cut two triangles in the center of the fold.
Place your lips on one triangle and blow into it, then blow into the second hole. Of course, the sounds that come out don’t resemble a whistle; rather, it looks like the purring of a cartoon mammoth looking for its mother, but the kids will like it, that’s for sure.