How to make a hood for a grinder in a workshop - This is interesting

The machine must have an exhaust hood - this is mandatory. Otherwise, both the equipment and the health of workers will deteriorate.

Despite the fact that wood is the most environmentally friendly material, constant inhalation of wood dust harms the lungs, slowly destroying them. As for large chips, they interfere with work, accumulating around tools and machines. To solve two problems at once and ensure order in the workshop, it is recommended to purchase an extractor for sawdust from under the machines. It includes a cyclone, a fan, a chip catcher, a waste collection tank and a number of additional components.

What is a chip pump?

The chip suction unit is an exhaust unit that helps remove wood waste - sawdust, shavings, dust - from the working area of the machine. In addition, it is used for cleaning the workshop, cleaning the floor or walls. A specially organized place is not required for its installation. The hoods are connected directly to woodworking machines and successfully replace standard exhaust ventilation. In the cold season, their use is even more important, since the air in the room heats up.

DIY USB Workshop Hood

Good day, dear craftsmen and DIYers. Today I will show you my version of a USB-powered hood, which is suitable for very narrow openings and places where it is not possible to install a regular hood. I assembled this hood under quarantine conditions, with minimal purchases and maximum squandering of old unnecessary things and what I had)).

So guys, I have an old workshop, and it just so happens that this room is not well ventilated. It is not possible to make a window or a hood there for certain reasons.

I’m a passionate person about my work, I like to make things, and then there was smoke from plastic and film and off we go, so the issue of the hood arose. I thought, why not make it with what we have - after all, everything is there for this purpose).

That's what we have friends. Window with wooden frame.

As you can see, you can’t really accelerate here, but that won’t stop us. I made holes with a crown for a 32 sewer pipe. Frankly speaking, if there was a pipe of a smaller diameter, say 20-25 mm, I would make one for it, there would simply be more pipes, but I’m already working with what I have.

I'm starting to prepare the main hood box - this is the 110th sewer. pipe.

Next, I make holes in it for the adapter 50th to 32nd pipe.

I insert the same adapters.

I measured and cut 4 identical pieces of that same 32nd pipe.

I put a little electrical tape on the ends of the tubes - those that will go into the adapters - this is in order to compress the adapters themselves more strongly and thereby improve the fit.

We put the tubes in their place.

Now the guys are starting to install fans that will pump our clean and dirty air.

I used good old 12 volt computer fans. They are very fun to download.

Since they do not have reverse rotation, I will use two of them. ONE FOR INJECTION, THE SECOND FOR PULLOUT.

I install them on workplaces.

Let's put it all on the line - this is what happens.

I used old floor lamp switches, each fan has its own.

There will be two options for food.

USB -5 volts and 12 volts. While I am powering everything from the power bank, there is no way to install wiring. It’s good that now there are such power banks - if you want, you’ll get 5 volts, but you can go up to 15 volts - no problem.

Basically I power it at 5 volts and these fans work very well - in this mode there is practically no noise.

I assembled two quick-release connections for power supply based on auto wire connectors.

I connected the fan wires into one line. All the wiring was laid outside so as not to drill extra holes and then think about how to seal it all)).

How does it work friends?

I turn on the required fan - pumping or pumping - depending on what is needed...

I mainly pump it out from the workshop and the fresh air intake comes from the windows in the next room.

It happens that I get nakhimich and quickly turn on the fresh supply - straight to the workshop - in general, here the steering wheels are as you want). There is a plug for these purposes; I simply cover the unnecessary fan with it, and when I leave, I cover both of them.

This, friends, turned out to be an interesting and necessary hood - where it was not possible to make it at all. Now work in the workshop has become safer and more interesting.

The room is not big - such a hood is enough for the eyes)).

Write what you think about this option. Roman - Handy Samodelkin is with you as always.

COPYING OR OTHER USE OF THE ARTICLE MATERIALS IS PROHIBITED. For these questions, write to the author.

Operating principle and device

The hood for the machine is assembled from a fan, a waste collection bag, a filter and a pipe. When the device is turned on, the chips are sucked in along with the air flow and enter the bag. Then the air continues to move, is cleaned by a filter and is released again into the room in its pure form. A good extraction method provides a 99% degree of purification. As the bags fill, they need to be removed, cleaned and reinstalled.

Two main characteristics of hoods:

Chip bag volume. It is calculated based on what work will be carried out. There are devices with a tank volume exceeding 400 liters. If you choose the right volume, the tank can be cleaned less often.
Power. Indicators such as the air flow of the machine hood and the performance of the device depend on it. Air flow is the volume that the device can pump per unit time). Industrial hoods can move more than 50 cubic meters of air in 1 minute, while consuming 2-3.5 kW of energy. But for a home workshop, a device with power consumption of up to 1.5 kW is sufficient.

Some people believe that you can make a good machine hood with your own hands. We do not recommend experimenting - this is an important component of the machine, and only a device manufactured at the factory according to state standards will provide better efficiency and safety. Also, do not forget to buy coolant for the machine - this can be done in our company in St. Petersburg.

Dust fans VR 100-45

Dust fan Snail VR 100-45

The design of the dust fan VR 100-45 is monoblock. The product is delivered to the customer assembled in original packaging. The VR 100-45 fan consists of the following structural units.

The frame is a welded metal structure that supports a spiral-shaped fan housing and an electric motor. During installation, the fan frame is attached to the foundation, ceiling or other supporting base using anchors. To reduce vibration loads and improve noise characteristics, it is recommended to install the frame on a supporting surface using spring or rubber vibration dampers.

The function of the housing is performed by a spiral volute body of the chip ejector, which during installation can be rotated at the desired angle to the horizontal at an angle from 0 to 315 degrees (in discrete increments of 45 degrees) for more convenient pairing of the outlet pipe with the air duct.

The radial impeller of the BP 100-45 fan, depending on the model, can be equipped with 6 or 8 blades and is placed coaxially with the round inlet pipe. The outlet pipe has a rectangular cross-section and is located perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the impeller. Both nozzles are equipped with flanges for mating with the air duct (direct connection through a sealing element or through flexible inserts of the appropriate cross-section).

Fan VR 100-45 - Manufacturing options

The dust fan VR 100-45 is produced by the manufacturer in 8 standard sizes. Selection of equipment based on performance is carried out based on the purpose and actual operating conditions.

VR 100-45 fans have two drive configuration options: - direct connection to the impeller hub; - via V-belt transmission.

Also, radial fans BP 100-45 can be supplied in two versions of the impeller:

— version 1 – the presence of fibrous substances in the working environment is not allowed; — version 2 – a small amount of fibrous inclusions may be present in the working environment (it is possible to use the equipment in textile factories where viscose, cotton, wool, etc. fibers are present in the working environment).

Depending on the purpose, the manufacturer produces radial fans VR 100-45:

— general industrial (basic version); — corrosion-resistant; - explosion-proof.

In terms of design and technical characteristics, the closest analogue is the VCP 7-40 fan, which is also presented on our website.

terms of Use

This class of ventilation equipment is intended for operation in temperate climates (t=-45...+40С), moderate and cold (t=-60...+40С) and tropical (t=-10...+50С).

Placement category – 2 and 3. It is allowed to operate radial fans VR 100-45 in placement category 1, provided that the electric motor is protected from direct solar radiation and precipitation.

Installation features

Exhaust devices are installed during construction immediately after the wall cladding has been completed and the electrical wiring has been laid. The hole for removing air masses should be located significantly lower (ideally in the floor) than where the air comes from. This design feature allows you to remove not only exhaust air, but also fine particles that appear when working with paint sprayers.

If necessary, it is possible to re-equip the finished premises. The exhaust pipe is installed almost at floor level, and the exhaust hole is located under the ceiling.

A hood in a garage or workshop can be assembled from ready-made elements. In this case, there are no difficulties: just follow the instructions, and a high-quality installation will be carried out. But ready-made exhaust devices are expensive, and not everyone can afford them. If you don’t have the funds, but you need to paint, then it’s quite possible to make the hood yourself.

Ventilation in the garage - if suddenly it’s gone...

Hoods and ventilation for automotive premises are not a luxury or an option, but a conscious necessity. Without ventilation, using a garage is fraught with a lot of unpleasant surprises :

Ventilation in the garage serves not only for ease of breathing for the car owner and his guests. Much more important is the fact that ventilated air reduces humidity in the room. There are often splashes of dirt and drops of rain on the car, and sometimes snow drifts. Thawing in a warm garage, they become a breeding ground for the development of corrosion;
In a garage without ventilation, a car rusts much faster. It is impossible to treat all critical components and parts with anti-corrosion compounds; no amount of DIY drainage will protect you from moisture in the air. Water vapor penetrates everywhere - as a result, major body work costing tens of thousands of rubles will be needed within a year or two, even for a new car;
Damp air contributes to the destruction of the supporting structures of the garage and the corrosion of most metal objects. If we periodically inspect the car ourselves and entrust preventive maintenance to the specialists, then garage racks and expensive spare parts are deprived of such attention. In proverbs, water wears away stones; in modern reality, metal often appears in place of stone;
Ventilated air rids our lungs of gasoline fumes, toxic exhaust gases and other less useful chemicals. Your own health is immeasurably more expensive than a well-designed and well-installed garage ventilation system.

The presence of heating does not solve the problem of “moist air”; a heated garage only resists corrosion longer, but only ventilation eliminates the cause of rust.

In addition, leaks in water heating systems are also fraught with the development of mold and fungi. The technical condition of pressure pipes in automotive premises must be monitored with special attention.

Technology for organizing natural ventilation

Let's consider the basic scheme of natural ventilation with two independent ventilation ducts.

When organizing proper air circulation in the garage, the following points should be taken into account:

The entrance hatch for air intake is located inside the garage 10 cm above the floor, and the ventilation duct itself bends at 90° and rises 30 cm from the ground. It is advisable to protect the ventilation entrance from precipitation and rodents with a canopy and grille. If you use specially cut holes in the garage door or its front wall for air intake, then they are made twice as large in area as the cross-section of the pipe for inlet ventilation and they also need to be protected with grilles.
The hood should be located at the rear wall of the garage in the upper corner opposite to the inlet ventilation duct. The exhaust pipe begins 10 cm below the ceiling and ends at least half a meter above the roof. It is protected from precipitation by a visor and, preferably, a deflector to stimulate traction.

Natural ventilation is based only on the action of physical laws and weather changes:

air movement in the garage occurs due to the difference in temperature and density of air masses inside and outside the building, the replacement of outgoing warm air with incoming cooled air
the speed of flow exchange depends on the strength of the wind, tending to replace warm air (low density), maintaining the temperature with good insulation of the garage
the movement during air exchange is determined by the tendency of warm air upward to where the pressure is reduced.

Given the simplicity of the design and cost savings when creating natural ventilation, you should not forget about the existing disadvantages:

in summer it is warmer outside than in the garage, and the air change process will be very slow
pressure drop will lead to drafts, and they are very harmful to health
if the garage is small, then the difference in pressure and temperature will also be small, and this will worsen air circulation
the wind does not always blow into the inlet
It is necessary to regularly clean the channels in winter from frozen condensate

Installation of natural ventilation

How to properly make natural ventilation in a garage with your own hands? It is necessary to strictly adhere to the calculations and follow the entire sequence of installation of ventilation ducts.

To calculate ventilation, you need to know the area of the garage. For 10 square meters of area, 150 mm of ventilation duct diameter will be required. For example, with a garage area of 20 m2, you will need, accordingly, a pipe with a cross-section of 30 cm (2.0 x 15 = 30). It turns out that if there are only two pipes, then they should both have the same cross-section, but if several hoods or supply inlets are used, then the diameter can be divided by the number of inlets. It turns out that the supply channel has one pipe diameter of 30 cm, and the hood, equipped in two places, has two pipes, each at least 15 cm (30:2 = 15).
To install pipes or ducts according to the calculations and diagram described in the technology for organizing natural ventilation, you will need:

pipes of the required length,
corner for supply pipe,
tool for making holes in walls and roofs,
sealant for sealing cracks,
deflector for hood,
protective grilles and canopy.

Ventilation in repair shops

The remaining repair areas of the service station are equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation of the exchange type, the multiplicity of which must be no less than one.

But even in this case, the desired result cannot be achieved using one universal installation. As a rule, the repair shop room is divided into sectors in which work of a certain type is performed.

For each technological sector, a separate air duct system should be provided, and in some cases completely isolated.

Thus, in areas where cutting, grinding and welding of body parts are carried out, a 100-150-fold exhaust hood with diffusers located on top and on the sides should be installed. Exhaust ducts must be equipped with a high-performance filter to capture abrasive particles.

In areas where engines are expected to be started periodically, there must be systems for local exhaust gas removal, consisting of a flexible hose with a nozzle that fits onto the exhaust pipe.

The power of local exhaust systems depends on the power of the vehicles being serviced. In the maximum version (for engines with power over 240 hp), the capacity of ventilation systems should be at least 800 m3/hour.

accepts orders for the design of ventilation systems for industrial, commercial and domestic premises, including the development of ventilation for car washes and service stations. More detailed information about the timing, cost and sequence of work can be found by calling the numbers published on the “Contacts” page.