Do-it-yourself folding wall-mount table: manufacturing instructions

Folding chair stool: detailed drawings, assembly diagram and photo.

We make a folding chair with our own hands.
Folding chairs are very compact; they are easy to unfold and fold, while they take up minimal space and do not clutter up the space in the room.

A folding chair can always be used at home, in the country, on a picnic; a folding chair is indispensable when fishing; when folded, it can be easily carried in your hand.

You can make a folding chair with your own hands; in this article we will look in detail at how to make a folding chair stool yourself. First, let's take a look at the drawings.

Drawing of a folding chair.


Another drawing, the design is identical, the only difference is in size.

And this is what the folding chair itself looks like.

The chair is folded.

Materials and tools for making a folding chair.

To make a chair, it is advisable to use hardwood, such a chair will last a long time, but at the same time, hardwood is heavier, it is optimal to make a chair from pine, it is more pliable in processing and the chair will be much lighter.

So, to make a folding chair we will need the following materials:

  • Bars 470 x 40 x 20 mm. - 4 things. (legs).
  • Bars 320 x 40 x 20 – 4 pcs. (crossbars under the seat).
  • Bars 320 x 40 x 20 – 2 pcs. (foot pads).
  • Bars 350 x 60 x 20 – 4 pcs. (sitting).
  • Bolts 6 x 40 mm – 6 pcs.
  • Self-tapping screws – 45 mm.

You will also need a standard set of tools for working with wood:

  • Hacksaw.
  • Plane.
  • Chisel.
  • Drill, drill with countersink.
  • Phillips screwdriver.
  • Sandpaper.
  • Square, tape measure, pencil.

How to make a folding chair with your own hands.

Let's start making the chair. We prepare the bars according to the dimensions provided, all the bars need to be treated with sandpaper, remove burrs, smooth out sharp corners.

We connect each pair of chair legs along the axis with bolts; when assembling, the heads of the bolts and nuts must be recessed flush; for this hole we additionally countersink.

We connect the legs at their upper ends to the seat crossbars with bolts and nuts, two legs on one side are attached to the outer crossbars and two legs on the other side to the inner crossbars.

We attach the outer bars of the seat to the crossbars.

To stabilize the chair, we attach the crossbars to the legs at the bottom with self-tapping screws.

Now we need to properly fasten the middle bars to the seat, one bar is attached to the outer crossbars, the other to the inner crossbars, we use self-tapping screws. When the chair is unfolded, the inner bars of the seat serve as a stop and support the structure.

The chair should easily unfold and fold so that the chair can be carried comfortably in the hand; you can make a comfortable handle.

Where to find an idea and how to properly translate it into material

The easiest and most affordable way is to go to a furniture store and look at the design of ready-made wall-mounted folding tables. Photos of finished works can be found online, but in the store you can see everything up close and see in detail how it was done.

If you want to adopt something, look for workshops on making furniture. Again, in a furniture store you can not only evaluate the work and design of the product, but also estimate its load-bearing capacity.

Once a solution has been chosen, it is worth starting to compile. The drawing should be both general and each detail of the future table separately. On all drawings you need to indicate all the necessary dimensions - at what distance from each other are the holes for the screws, where the dowels are located.

You should definitely indicate the length and width dimensions of all parts so that you can select the correct workpiece. When all the drawings are drawn up, they are put together and checked to see if there are any contradictions.

It happens that the store does not have the necessary hinges, fasteners or corners for attaching to the wall. In this case, the drawing is adjusted in accordance with the details that were found. After this, you should stock up on consumables for work. When purchasing material or selecting it from stocks, you need to monitor its quality.

It is advisable to take planed boards, sanded, waterproof plywood, chipboard with good quality. The amount of material is selected with a reserve. When purchasing large sheets, it is better to figure out in advance how you will cut it. Then the required material may not be available for sale.

The next stage is to start working. You need to figure out what will be done and why in advance. With all the difficulties that may arise, one must not despair. We have to try, we have to try. Carpentry is quite painstaking and requires accuracy, a lot of time and effort.

How to make a folding workbench on the wall with your own hands is presented in the video:

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Initially, in this place we had a “small” factory computer desk, which was taken from Prazhskaya. But over time, we realized that in our tiny room this table takes up too much space (more than a meter from the wall). I had to cut it into components and make a TV stand out of it. And in this place, assemble such a simple folding table, which, if desired, could be folded and thereby free up space in the room. We don’t pay attention to the poor calendars; I used them to cover (for the duration of the photo shoot) the opening in the wall where the LG CRT monitor used to stand.

These are the actual dimensions of our tabletop, purely for clarity and you should absolutely not adhere to these dimensions and shapes. The chipboard sheet itself was bought at OBI, I don’t know exactly, but in my opinion it was originally 90x60cm. And after we rounded the edges with a jigsaw and cut out a small niche for the back of the chair, the dimensions of the table became 90x56 cm. Then, the ends of this sheet were processed with sandpaper wound on a block. Then we covered the end with a PVC edge, except for the back side, since the piano hinge will be attached there.

The table was attached to the wall using a 45x45 mm block, since the wall is very soft (chalk) and, moreover, not perfectly flat. The block itself was screwed to the wall with four self-tapping screws, about 8-10 cm long. Countersinks were drilled into the block so that the heads of the screws would not stick out. After we pulled the block to the wall using an iron, we sealed the countersinks with melamine edge. Previously, when we had a CRT monitor, this block served as a small window sill on which the mouse and keyboard were parked in a vertical position, in special insulated pockets.

The piano hinge was screwed to the tabletop and then to a block on the wall.

The opposite edge of the tabletop is supported by two pieces of such a chain along the edges. The length of these sections is selected after the hooks are screwed to the wall and the corners to the tabletop. That is, we set the tabletop strictly horizontally (aligned), and then measure the length of the chains.

A couple of these hooks, 3.5 mm thick, were wrapped into the wall through the plugs.

For some reason, the hooks didn’t impress me with their appearance, so to attach the chain to the table, I decided to use an ordinary iron furniture corner fixed under the table. First, a 2-3 mm drill was used to drill a series of holes in the table, then, using the same drill, we selected jumpers between the holes diagonally. After drilling, I slightly trimmed the holes with a file. This created two longitudinal holes for the corners in the chipboard. Before attaching the corners under the tabletop, I rounded off the tails (those that will always be on the front side) of the corners with a file. After that, we unbent one link on the chain and put it on the corner.

So that the tabletop does not hit the back of the head (if you sit with your back to it). This simple hook-spring was bent from tin. Which holds the tabletop vertically and at the same time, at a certain distance from the wall, that is, parallel to the wall. It works flawlessly and is quite reliable.

A table for a balcony is a structure consisting of a system of fastenings to the wall, a folding tabletop and a stop bar. There are quite a few design options, which is explained by the possibility of making a table yourself (according to your own drawings) or purchasing a finished product in stores.

Folding table allows for uncluttered space when not in use

Reclining seat with wall mounting

Folding seats belong to the so-called transformable built-in furniture. Wanting to sit down, they are laid out. When they are no longer needed, they are raised again, thereby increasing the free space.

A wall-mounted folding seat is convenient to use in small rooms and narrow passages. This could be a shower stall, hallway, balcony or loggia. This piece of furniture will be enjoyed by both an elderly person to, for example, put on shoes, and a group of young people having a mini-picnic on the balcony on a summer evening.

Advantages and disadvantages of reclining seats

The pros and cons of the product are interconnected and are flip sides of each other.

  1. The device cannot be moved quickly. To do this, it is necessary to dismantle and then reinstall the chair, but in a different place.
  2. Complexity of design, which means less reliability compared to traditional furniture.
  3. A rigid binding does not allow you to “adjust” the seat, that is, move it or turn it to make it more comfortable.
  4. It is an integral part of the design of the room, is clearly visible, and therefore requires a thoughtful location.

The disadvantages cannot be eliminated, since they are based on the design principle itself.

The main and only advantage lies in the very idea of ​​a folding chair: it takes up space only when it is needed. Then the seat is pressed against the wall (partition, column) and practically disappears.

Types of wall mountings for reclining seats and their design features

All reclining seat systems are conventionally divided into four types:

  1. Unsupported, or cantilever. Supports the weight of a sitting person only due to the stopper on the swivel hinge. Therefore, in the manufacture of this unit it is necessary to use durable materials.
  2. With additional support on the floor. This type has one or a pair of legs that fold down when the seat is lowered and resemble the legs of a regular chair. The system is one of the most complex to implement, since the supports must be expanded and retracted simultaneously with the rotation of the seat itself. Photo 3
  3. Supported on the wall. Intermediate option. It has a support foot that rests against the wall. It is inferior in complexity to the previous type, since the support is shorter.
  4. Hanging systems. They are held in place by suspensions made in the form of levers or cables, which are attached above the plane of the seat. They are quite rare.

The first type is the most compact and fits best into the interior of the room. However, due to the additional support, the seats described in paragraphs 2-4 are able to withstand much more weight. At the same time, they are more noticeable, and their design is more suitable for techno or hi-tech style.

The type of attachment to structures is associated with a device that holds the seat closed. There are three technical solutions to this problem:

  1. Spring systems. Typically, the direction of the force vector changes relative to the axis of rotation. This means that when the chair is lowered, the spring force is directed downwards. After rising to a certain angle, the direction changes and the spring presses it against the wall.
  2. Latch-button or rotary lever. It must be pressed (turned) while lowering and/or raising the seat.
  3. The weight of the seat itself. The mechanics are similar to the spring system, but operates due to gravity. When raised, the vector is directed behind the axis of rotation, pressing the cradle against the wall. When lowered, at a certain moment it crosses the plane of the axis, and the seat reclines.

Some spring seats are supported by the person's own weight. They close automatically when standing up. This type of seat is familiar to those who have traveled in compartment cars, where similar devices are installed in the aisle along the compartment.

Technology for mounting a folding seat to the wall

Before using the mechanism, it must be secured. Most often, a wall or partition acts as the base. If there are columns in the interior, you can attach a folding seat to them.

Even before starting work, it is necessary to determine how well the construction material corresponds to future loads. If it is lightweight and cellular concrete, and even more so plasterboard, it is necessary to strengthen the fastening points. Wood requires the appropriate type of anchorage.

The structure is fixed to anchors. The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. To ensure accurate installation, markings must be made first. Some seat models come with a template to make this step easier.
  2. Using a hammer drill, drill holes for anchor devices.
  3. Expansion anchors are inserted into the drilled grooves and then secured with a wrench or screwdriver.
  4. The decorative trim is removed from the seat mount, attached to the anchor bolts, and then returned to its place. Check the operation and make adjustments if necessary.

Additional support devices are attached in the same way.

The installation height of the seats depends on their design; if no limitation is provided, they are installed in a way that is convenient for users. Usually this is 45-50 cm from the floor.

Fastening methods and options for supporting elements

There are a wide variety of mechanisms for attaching the table to the main panel and for fixing the folding plate in the raised state.

If desired, it is possible to independently manufacture all structural elements. In this case, the fastening bar is made in the form of a triangle (cut from the same material as the main and folding parts of the table), screwed to the axis of symmetry of the wall panel. Sometimes legs made of a wooden block are used as a support. The stability of the furniture will be provided by a cross-shaped or parallel arrangement of legs.

The hardware market offers several types of ready-made fasteners: metal corner supports, folding consoles from different manufacturers. As a rule, the fittings are covered with enamel of various shades.

The tabletop is screwed to the wall panel using special hinges (some hinges for the folding element are mounted separately - for the main and folding parts of the structure).

One way to attach a folding table

Rules for choosing and purchasing a suitable seat

When choosing a seat, you are primarily guided by the conditions of the room where it is intended to be used, as well as the mode of operation:

  • Public spaces are subject to heavy traffic and careless use. Choose a reliable design, without any frills, without soft lining.
  • Rooms with high humidity (showers, bathrooms, baths, saunas) require the use of stainless materials. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the temperature regime.
  • For hallways and corridors, it is necessary to choose a design that fits into the design as much as possible or is as inconspicuous as possible.
  • Outdoor use (unheated loggias, balconies, open and closed verandas) involves the use of materials that are resistant to temperature changes and precipitation.

Preference should be given to high-quality plastic, processed wood, and stainless steel.

You also need to decide on the location of the folding chair. Sometimes it is worth considering the option of corner placement.

When purchasing a product, pay attention to the completeness, comparing it with the passport. If the design of the device provides for complex hinges or spring mechanisms, it is necessary to ensure that they are in good working order, as well as normal functioning.

There should be no damage on the surface of the products: scratches, chips, signs of corrosion.

It is worth checking (at least approximately) that the anchors included in the kit will provide reliable fastening. In this case, the material and thickness of the walls are taken into account.

If the package does not include anchor fasteners, it must be purchased additionally.

Seat cost

The price of products directly depends on the complexity of execution, materials used, and build quality. Even the simplest device in design can cost an order of magnitude more than a more sophisticated one:

  • A decent folding chair for installation in places where high loads are not expected and special operating conditions are not expected can be purchased for 2-3 thousand rubles.
  • Models for showers and other similar rooms where the load is higher will cost 3-5 thousand.
  • The price of high-quality branded models reaches 15-20 thousand rubles, and sometimes even higher.

In the vast majority of cases, the price does not affect the comfort of the seats in any way.

Folding table

You can make a folding wall table made of plywood with your own hands. The convenience of such a piece of furniture will be especially obvious if it is intended to be placed in a limited area. You don't have to look far for examples. There is always not enough space on a balcony or loggia, and such a table, when folded, is only a few centimeters away from the wall.

It is clear that a console table, and even a folding table, will be useful in any room of your house. The main thing is the design; here it is so simple that the work is quite accessible to a master of any qualification. It is enough to be able to cut the plywood into parts, sand it, paint it and screw it to the wall on hinges using self-tapping screws and dowel nails.

For work, it is better to use plywood with a thickness of at least 16 mm. . You can also make it from sheets of 10-12 mm. , but the table will turn out watery. To work you will also need 6 or 7 door hinges, self-tapping screws, dowel - nails, drill, electric jigsaw, finishing nails and glue. To strengthen the front and rear edges of the tabletop, wooden blocks or pieces of the same plywood are used.

Dimensions of parts: Tabletop width along the wall is 900 mm. and depth 500 mm. . Rail for façade edge 900 mm long. , width 32 mm. and 20 mm thick. . Rail for attaching hinges 900 mm long. , 50 mm wide. and thickness 16-20 mm. . Folding side panels 600 mm high. and width 400 mm. , two pieces.

Pictures from home-dzine.co.za.

We mark and saw off a piece of plywood 900/500 mm. for the countertop. We place a block on the front edge, place it on glue and tighten it with small nails. Instead of nails, you can use self-tapping screws, you just need to drill holes for them with a 3 mm drill. , 2/3 of the screw length. In any case, glue is required; nails and screws do not hold securely in the end of the plywood. On the far side of the tabletop, flush with the edge, we install an additional strip for the hinges. We also apply glue and tighten with self-tapping screws.

We cut out two sidewalls 400/600 mm. . The front edge of the parts is cut at an angle. The cutting marking is 150 mm. from the top corner and 80 mm. from the bottom. To help, an article on working with a jigsaw.

After the glue has dried, it is advisable to sand the parts well, otherwise the paint will not adhere well. After sanding, the table blanks can be painted immediately. It is better to do this before installing the hinges. In this case, the hinges are screwed on without recessing, so markings can be made according to the painted parts. Another option for a homemade wall table, but made from solid wood, is the article console table with a mirror.

We install two or three hinges on top of the tabletop and attach them to an additional block. We measure out places on the wall for drilling holes for dowels and nails. Standard table height is 750-760 mm. , if you plan to install the product in a children's room, then the height should be adjusted according to the age of the child.

Please note that with this method of attaching the hinges, the tabletop cannot move down. Therefore, it is necessary to install a latch at the top of the wall to secure the tabletop in the raised position.

We install two loops on the inside of each side panel. We attach the hinges to the wall so that when the tabletop is lowered, it rests completely on the upper edges of the sidewalls. We leave the overhangs of the tabletop along the sides, 35-50 mm each. .

To prevent the sidewalls from being accidentally knocked down, we screw two 20/20/50 mm bars on the underside of the tabletop. on each side. The bars should be on both sides of each sidewall. When the tabletop is lowered onto the slopes, the sidewalls fall between the bars and are fixed.

Carpentry joints for beginners

For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, it is easier to first master three types of connections: connections using screws and self-tapping screws, connections using dowels, and connections using metal corners.

Fastening the table with corners

Fastening the table with corners

Connection with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws is the simplest. A self-tapping screw differs from a screw in that it has a thinner shaft and is more suitable for tightening without pre-drilling. In furniture making, preliminary drilling is almost always done, at least through it with an awl. It is in vain to think that this is something rough and artisanal - in furniture stores you can often find cabinets and tables fastened with threaded fasteners, the heads of which are covered with overlays:

  • For proper connection, it will be necessary to mark the place where the threaded fasteners will be located. To do this, carefully measure everything and make a mark with a marker. After this, drill a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm strictly at right angles to the surface. To maintain a right angle when drilling with a drill, beginners are advised to place a square parallel to the axis of the drill and check against it. It is most convenient to use a one-handed electric drill so that you can hold the square with your other hand.
  • If the screws have countersunk heads, countersink them. The countersink is made with a large drill with the desired sharpening angle - usually 90 degrees. The drill must be sharp. It is applied to the first hole and its entrance is expanded to a small depth so that the screw head fits completely into the recess. Often, when fastening boards with self-tapping screws, drilling is not done - the self-tapping screw will push through the soft material under the tightening force. However, this does not look very neat. And a self-tapping screw is unlikely to be “crushed” completely into plywood - it is too hard.

Fastening on dowels is more complicated than threaded fastening. A dowel is a wooden cylinder made of hardwood:

  • It is inserted into the holes on two mating parts using glue. After the glue hardens, a strong and simple connection is formed - both angular and longitudinal.
  • For fastening, it is important to select the size of the hole for the dowel. It may be 0.2-0.3 mm larger, but nothing more. It is also important to mark the mating parts. It must match so that the connection is also correct. It is convenient to make center-to-center distances of dowels using a jig template - holes are drilled in a solid wooden or plastic workpiece, then holes are made along them on the mating part. The holes must also go strictly at right angles. The depth of the holes should be approximately 2-3 mm greater than the length of the dowel.
  • First, the dowels are lubricated with glue and carefully driven into the holes on one of the mating parts until they stop. Then lubricate the dowels with glue and carefully, using a wooden mallet, install another mating part on them. Check the connection using a square or on a plane using a ruler. The glue is allowed to dry, after which the connection can be used.

Connections using corners and metal plates have much in common with connections using screws. Here metal corners act as fastening elements:

  • Sometimes they are recessed into the surface of the parts to be joined, making indentations using a chisel. Sometimes not.
  • Holes are also drilled here at right angles. However, the marking must be carried out along the mating metal part.
  • Countersinking is not performed - there is a recess for the head on the metal part.

It is only important to choose the right fastener so that it fits neatly under this recess. In the same way, the hinges are attached, which are used for folding and unfolding the table.

Folding table with vertical wall mounting

The easiest option is to attach a wooden plank to the wall on hinges and raise it as needed. But today's furniture and interior design has gone further: a table made from a wall can become an independent element of decor.

The main advantage of this piece of furniture is its compactness. This is an ideal solution for a balcony, loggia, small kitchen. While cooking, you can fold it, and for lunch, spread it out and gather as a family.

Compared to regular tables, folding tables are much cheaper. But the disadvantage is that the surface is small - you can’t arrange a 12-course holiday dinner on it.

How to choose and buy a hanging table

Not every tabletop shape will look good in such a design. The kitchen table from the wall will most likely be square, designed for 2 people. This must be taken into account when choosing.

If you want to make furniture yourself, you need to calculate the area of ​​the tabletop so that it can be hung on the wall. The fastenings do not support very much weight.

If you buy a ready-made kitchen table in the wall, the manufacturers have calculated everything for you. Most often in stores you can find square and round shapes of countertops. For narrow elongated kitchens, manufacturers offer rectangular shapes, but using them is no longer so convenient.

Step-by-step instructions for cutting, assembling and attaching the table

The final stage is installing the tabletop on the frame. To do this, the thrust bar is opened and the table cloth is placed on top. It is necessary to carefully align the structural elements - the stop should be located in the center of the table, and the tabletop should fit closely to the wall and rest well on the stop bar. In this position, piano hinges from below connect the beam and the tabletop (the thickness of the stop strip must be taken into account).

  • on a narrow balcony, the width of the tabletop should not exceed 2/3 of the width of the balcony, and on a wide balcony - no more than the distance from the floor to the block;
  • The length of the tabletop is selected taking into account the tastes of the residents. With significant sizes
  • two thrust strips are installed to ensure structural rigidity;
  • the ends of the table top are covered with an edge;
  • it is easier to screw fasteners into pre-marked and prepared holes;
  • For rectangular, triangular, and square countertops, the corners are slightly rounded.

Various models of tables in stores, photographs of real works of design, posted on the Internet, will not leave owners of compact balconies indifferent.
The main thing is that making a table for a balcony with your own hands is quite possible, and it’s easy to choose your favorite color and size from the many offers of materials and accessories. Laguna - turnkey pools in Crimea - large pool.

Make your own table like in IKEA

You can make a simple table from the wall in the kitchen with your own hands; even a person without training can handle it. First, select the model, material and type of fastening.

Materials and tools

To make a wall-mounted folding table you will need:

Distance to floor

When calculating the size of the tabletop, you need to take into account the height of the table mounting to the wall. Measure other pieces of furniture in your apartment, including chairs. See which table is more comfortable for all family members to sit at. For a person of average height, the optimal table height is 70-80 cm. Accordingly, the length from the wall to the edge of the table top should not be more than 65 cm.

Manufacturing

For a better understanding, watch the video:

Advantages of wall furniture

The main advantages of wall-mounted furniture are ease of installation, minimalism, ergonomics and the ability to make it yourself. It fits any interior. This type of table is often installed as an additional workspace for a child. Due to its compactness, it can be quickly expanded or folded.

Interesting information: in addition to installing the table inside the apartment, it can be used in industrial premises or in the garage. A DIY wall-mounted folding table will give you freedom of movement in small-sized objects.

Folding table in the interior: decor

With the right approach, a folding table against the wall can become an original piece of furniture. It can be placed under shelves, in a closet, or decorated with paintings and posters. It all depends on your imagination.

Cabinet

If you have a full-fledged office, you may not need a folding tabletop against the wall. After all, you have enough space to set up a full-fledged desktop.

If you don’t have a separate office and you have to work in different parts of the house, this solution will help you organize your workplace. A good idea is to equip the closet with a folding chair and table, which can be conveniently hidden behind the doors. This can be done either in a regular closet or in a closet.

Balcony

A great idea is to create a workplace on the balcony or loggia. Modern designers offer many furniture options for narrow spaces. You can have a table leaning away from one wall and a chair from the other. In the corner you can hang shelves for books and organizers.

The balcony can also be turned into a relaxing place. To do this, attach a folding table to the wall, place a comfortable wicker chair, and hang several plants. In such a corner it is pleasant to drink coffee in the morning or read a book.

Children's

If children are still small, they constantly run around the room and play outdoor games. In this case, a large table with sharp corners causes injuries. To reduce the risk of children's tears, you can place several folding tables along the wall. They will not take up extra space. During outdoor games, you can fold them up and not worry about the risk of bruises and bruises.

Kitchen dining tables

It's difficult to make a small kitchen comfortable for a family of 3. Most often, the space is filled with cabinets; a lot of space is occupied by the refrigerator and table. People come to this kitchen for lunch and dinner in shifts, since it is impossible to accommodate the whole family comfortably. The solution to this problem is a folding table and chairs. During cooking, they do not interfere with the hostess; they are raised only for serving and serving dishes.

Creative table: how to design and what to decorate with

Options for folding tables in stores come in different shapes and colors. They do not require decoration, as they are constantly folded and disassembled. If you want to arrange a creative space around, use wall decorations: paintings, posters.

A set of several photographs or paintings looks more interesting than one large image. You can hang narrow shelves and place decorative vases, souvenirs, and writing instruments on them.

Transformable table-picture

A table-picture is a solution to the problem of decorating a folded table. The poster is placed on the reverse surface; when folded, it hangs on the wall. The legs are hidden inside the structure.

Tools and materials

To work, you will need carpentry tools, metalworking tools for working with iron. You will definitely need a marking tool, no matter what you are going to do. And if you have some kind of power tool, this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work. The only power tool you should have is a hammer drill or an impact drill - this is necessary to mount the fastening of the table elements on a wall made of.

Tools

Carpentry tools:

  • Wood hacksaw
  • Rasp, scraper, sandpaper
  • Hammer
  • Mallet made of wood
  • Drill with a set of feather drills for wood or a brace
  • Countersink drills for self-tapping screw heads
  • Screwdrivers with different heads
  • Chisels
  • Oblique knife for trimming and slicing
  • Miter box with slotting saw
  • Planer and jointer

Locksmith tools:

  • Hacksaw for metal
  • Files of different shapes and
  • Chisel
  • Bench hammers weighing 200 and 400 grams
  • Wooden mallets and linings for straightening
  • Wrenches, pliers, pliers, wire cutters.
  • Metal scissors

You will need all the plumbing tools if you plan to make a table for working in the garage. In this case, we can recommend a wooden structure made of thick timber and thick timber, the top of which is covered with iron 1-2 mm thick. This design is easy to manufacture and quite resistant to loads.

Marking and measuring tools:

  • Marking pencil, scriber, marker
  • Ruler 30 cm long and 1 meter made of metal
  • Square with stop
  • Compass
  • Building level
  • Roulette – to determine the position of the table in

It is not necessary to have a power tool, but it is highly recommended:

  • For a simple wooden table, it is advisable to have a router. This way you can complete the work of rounding corners and installing hinges cleanly and smoothly. With its help, you can even cut boards evenly and accurately to the desired size.
  • The second tool that may be required is a screwdriver. If it is powerful enough, it can not only tighten and unscrew fasteners, but also drill holes in.
  • The third tool is parquet. With it you can most accurately cut boards at right angles and lengthwise.
  • A jigsaw can replace both parquet and a router, but after it you will have to do a lot of fine-tuning and adjustment - it does not cut very smoothly.
  • An electric drill will help with drilling, but should not be used to tighten fasteners.
  • As already mentioned, it is imperative to have a hammer drill or impact drill to make holes in the wall.
  • A cross-cut saw is an indispensable tool if you want to cut a lot of boards under different conditions, and if you have a woodworking machine with a circular saw and a plane, great!

In general, you can use any power tool for its intended purpose - this will make your work much easier.

You may also need painting tools if you plan to paint or varnish the table - brushes, foam sponges, a small roller, spray gun, etc.

Materials

If you are planning to make a folding wall mount table with your own hands, you will probably find old boards, sheets of plywood, etc. in your garage or shed:

  • In most cases, it is most convenient to use sheets of thick plywood for work - from 10 mm or more. It will withstand shock loads and will not warp or delaminate over time.
  • If strength and durability are not very important to you, use chipboard. From old furniture and cabinets, you can extract several sheets of chipboard with a good finish. It’s easy to make a tabletop out of them and then trim its edge with furniture tape.
  • For a powerful folding workbench, it is better to use strong beams for the legs and strong plywood for the table top. It is especially worth paying attention to the fastening to the wall - it would be better if the support beam is not only attached to the wall, but also rests on the floor through a frame or a pair of legs.
  • Boards are also a good material. However, working with them will require more qualifications than with plywood. Making a tabletop out of planks requires a lot of plane work.
  • Nowadays there are glued laminated wood boards on sale, from which you can cut a tabletop of any shape and size.

But they are all inferior to plywood in terms of strength and convenience. The manufacture of supporting and fastening elements from boards also has its own difficulties.

You will need metal parts - butterfly hinges and piano hinges, handles for easy folding, metal clamps for legs, wheels for them, etc. Depending on the design of the table, all this can be purchased at a furniture store that sells accessories. You may also need plastic - for finishing, as some kind of fastening elements. However, for fastening, preference should be given to metal parts.

Before starting work, you need to have a drawing of the table that you want to make, as well as roughly draw up a plan for its manufacture and what tools you will need. You also need to make a list of all the necessary materials and their quantities.

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