Diver's helmet made of papier-mâché. Master Class

Regardless of whether a person is involved in cycling professionally or rides a bicycle for fun, one should always wear a special helmet.

It protects the head from various injuries in case of an accidental fall, protects from rain and wind, and if the model has a small visor, the athlete will not be afraid that direct sunlight will interfere with riding.

In stores, as well as on various websites, you can see many options for bicycle helmets, which differ in size, design, color and price. When choosing the most successful model for yourself, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the different types, analyze the features of their designs and study reviews from experienced cyclists.

Types of bicycle helmets

Different types of helmets are produced for cyclists, which are made depending on:

• Riding style, for example, for road riding, skating, downhill and others.
• Gender of a person.

Most often, women's and men's helmets differ in design and color palette.

• Age – for an adult cyclist, teenager or child.

Tip: When choosing the best type, the main things to consider are riding style and size.

Cross Country

Cross-country helmets are in great demand among ordinary cycling enthusiasts, especially in the summer.

These types have many features:

• Lungs.

An interesting point: as noted by 78% of cyclists who bought a cross-country helmet, it is practically not felt on the head, and besides, even in warm weather it is not hot in it.

• Comfortable.
• They have a large number of holes for ventilation.
• Average weight 280 – 300 grams.
• Protects your head from overheating.
• Protection goes only to the top of the head.

The cross-country type does not protect the temples and the back of the head, therefore, such helmets should not be purchased if a person prefers to ride at high speeds or is a fan of extreme skiing.

Advice: this helmet is worth buying for those who like quiet cycling, and on flat terrain.

Highway

Cyclists buy a road helmet most often because it is not only reliable, but also great for riding all year round. According to statistics, people buy road helmets 4.5 times more often than all other types.

Among the features of this type, specialists call:

1. Oblong appearance.
2. Streamlined shape.
3. Average weight 300 – 350 grams.
4. Special ventilation holes of large diameter.
5. Protects the top of the head.
6. Increased structural strength.

An important point: road helmets, provided that the model is of high quality, can protect an athlete’s head from falling onto the asphalt, and at high speed.

Enduro

Types called enduro are similar in appearance to cross-country helmets, but unlike them, they more reliably protect the athlete’s head.

The main features of enduro are:

1. Protects not only the top of the head, but also the temples and the back of the head.
2. Suitable for driving at high speed, including extreme riding.
3. They have special ventilation holes.
4. Average weight 290 – 320 grams.

An important point: 95% of enduros must be replaced if a person accidentally falls and this type receives a strong blow.

Bowler

Bowler helmets are also known as skating helmets. They are mainly purchased by athletes who skate at an amateur or professional level.

The features of the “kettles” are:

• Round form.
• Manufactured using hard plastic.
• They perfectly protect the entire head, including the temporal part and the back of the head.
• Suitable for all types of cycling, including extreme riding.
• There are small diameter ventilation holes.

Note: there are very few holes on the bowler hats, which makes the helmet even more durable.

• No visor provided.

During the warm season, many athletes cannot ride in “kettles” due to the fact that it becomes unbearably hot.

Interesting point : a high-quality “bowler” can withstand even a single strong blow, therefore, it will not have to be changed immediately if it accidentally falls.

Fullface

Fullface is characterized by increased strength and reliability.

The features of these helmets are:

• All-round protection.

An interesting point: full face saves the back of the head, temples, upper part, and also the chin in case of a sudden fall.

• There is eye protection.

Special eye shields protect against accidental hits of small stones, as well as street dust and dirt.

• Low ventilation system.

Low ventilation makes the full-face 3.5 times stronger than other models.

An important point: full-face helmets are ideal for extreme riding, as well as professional cycling, but such helmets are not advisable for ordinary cycling enthusiasts, especially at low speeds.

Track

The track type is designed specifically for professional cyclists, especially those who participate in serious competitions and set records.

The features of these helmets are:

1. Drop-shaped.
2. Increased strength at the back of the helmet.
3. Improves the aerodynamic performance of the athlete.
4. High price.

Advice: a person who is not involved in cycling at a professional level should not buy track models.

Children's

Not only adult cyclists, but also children require a helmet. These types are performed by analogy, like country types.

The main features of children's types are:

1. Bright design.
2. Small size that fits baby's head perfectly.
3. The number of ventilation holes is 1.5 - 2 times less than on adult models.

Important: a small number of holes give the helmet strength and, therefore, better protect the child’s head in case of a fall.

MY MOTORCYCLE

On the Internet I found a cool work by a guy (unfortunately, only his name is known about the author - Andrey) - a do-it-yourself predator helmet. I liked it and decided to share it with you:

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The basis for the helmet was some kind of Chinese trash. They tore out all of its foam-rubber insides from the donor. They will still be useful to us.

Inside the helmet there was this foam “helmet”. We adjust it to the size of our head and fix it on the slipway.

Using a soldering iron, we begin to give it the desired shape + add the missing parts.

We go to the stationery store and buy 2 briquettes of art plasticine and apply it on top of the foam form.

Having given the plasticine the shape we need, we try to smooth the surface as much as possible, for this we use a wet roller. When the surface becomes smooth, you can begin the most complex process.

Application of fiberglass! We do it this way: we cut the fiberglass into small pieces, prepare a small portion of epoxy resin, apply the resin over the plasticine and apply a piece of fabric. There's more resin on top.

In this way we form several layers of fiberglass.

After the layers have dried, we cut down our structure with a grinder.

We take out the remains of the slipway. Using an industrial hairdryer we melt plasticine from everywhere.

Next, we clean the surface using a grinding wheel attached to a drill. Attention!!! During this process, thousands of glass needles appear in the air - so protect all exposed areas of the body, especially the nose, mouth, and eyes.

The next stage is preparation and painting. Using automotive putty, we bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state (to make it look better than in the photo: when painting, all the “sides” may come out).

Well, now you can start painting.

Next, according to the plan, you need to add “dreadlocks”. We buy laces (the thickest ones you can find). We drill holes in the back of the helmet and thread the laces through them. We fuse washers inside so that our dreadlocks don’t get pulled out.

What's a predator's helmet without a sight? 3 LEDs are mounted in a special cavity. The crown battery and the key are brought out into the jaw.

We remove the strap from the donor's helmet and attach it to ours, using rivets.

Now the interior finishing. We take the remains of the previous helmet - cut it off and cover the foam inserts with soft fabric. Here's what happens:

There are 7 such plates in total, all of them are of different shapes, for different parts of the head. We glue the elements with “Moment”.

Well, the robot’s final touch is the visor. Made of tinted plexiglass. Glued tightly. Yes, it’s a little inconvenient, but it’s a formal helmet, not for every day. Here's what happens:

In general, the robot is quite cool and interesting. If you think carefully, you can still make some modifications (applies to some parts and the visor)…..the impossible does not happen.)))

Design features of bicycle helmets

Regardless of the type of helmet, they all have the same design features:

• A reliable case, which is made of various materials, but performs the same function - protects the cyclist’s head in case of a fall.

85% of models have a body that can become deformed when dropped. This feature allows you to more reliably protect a person’s head and soften the blow.

• Special coating. During production, a special coating is used that can repel moisture, impart strength to the structure, and most importantly, reduce the load on the athlete’s neck area.

Note: the more expensive the helmet, the better the coverage.

A lining that can be removable or non-removable. Thanks to such linings, it is ensured:

• comfort while driving;
• sweat absorption;
• softening the blow.

Models with removable linings can be removed and washed, so they will always be clean.

• Fasteners or straps that allow you to firmly fix the helmet and not lose it while riding.
• Holes for ventilation.

Some models have less, others have more. However, it is impossible to do without them, otherwise the athlete risks getting heatstroke.

Also, many types have the following design features:

• mosquito nets that protect against insects.

For children, it is advisable to purchase models that are equipped with mosquito nets.

• reflectors;

Important: reflective elements make a cyclist visible on the road at any time of the day.

• small video cameras.

Note: video cameras on helmets are more necessary for professional cyclist racers, as they allow the athlete to subsequently view the recording and understand why the fall occurred, study all the mistakes and carefully familiarize himself with the features of the route.

Tips for choosing a helmet in a store

When purchasing a helmet in a store, it is important to follow a number of tips. In this case, the model will last a long time, and most importantly, it will protect your head from falls.

Key recommendations when choosing are:

1. Buy a helmet based on your riding type.
2. Be sure to inspect the model and make sure there are no scratches, flaws or defects.
3. Try on the helmet; normally it should not rub or cause discomfort.
4. Pay attention to the material from which it is made.
5. Make sure there are ventilation holes.
6. Read the manufacturer's documents.

Don’t be afraid to ask the seller for certificates; you should understand that the lack of documents for a specific model may indicate that the helmet is fake, and therefore will not protect your head in case of a fall.

How to choose a helmet size?

Any helmet must fit exactly in size, otherwise it will not perform its main functions and will also not be comfortable.

When choosing, a person is required to:

• Look at the label to see the size indicated by the manufacturer.

If an athlete does not know what size his head is, then he needs to take a measuring tape and wrap it around his head. Moreover, you need to measure two centimeters higher than the eyebrows.

• Take the appropriate size and put it on your head.
• Fasten all fasteners and straps.
• Try bending, jumping and spinning.

Note: Normally the helmet should not move or fall off.

Advice: if a person rides in the cold season, then it is important to take into account that a hat fits under the helmet.

Diver's helmet made of papier-mâché. Master Class

Once upon a time I saw a diving helmet at a vernissage. I don’t know why, it seems like a stupid subject, but it made an impression on me. Coincidentally, I decided to try to make knightly armor from papier-mâché and almost bought a mannequin for this purpose, but thought better of it in time... I chose a simpler object - “Diving Helmet”. Which, in general, is what I’ll share today.

There are a lot of interesting photos on the Internet. You can choose one for every taste and color.

First, let's make a sphere out of cardboard. The easiest way, of course, is to buy an inflatable ball at a sports store. But you won’t always find the right size... I offer my own version of making a sphere. We cut two planes with a margin. This “reserve”, i.e. edge, then cut into slices and folded over.

We cut out another plane from the foam. Total - we have only three pieces, sir... (and not endless cutting of ribs).

We divide the foam into four equal parts and glue it into a sphere. In the photo, the edges of the cardboard are cut and folded.

Now we carefully cover the sphere with strips of thinner cardboard, i.e. make a ball.

The photo shows an almost finished sphere. Now we need a pipe. I just took a large pan and wrapped it in cardboard.

The helmet collar is all made of the same cardboard. I cut it completely randomly - by eye, then trimmed off the excess...

I cut out two planes for the bolts from polystyrene foam.

Here are the 5 parts you need. All that remains is to put it all together.

Assembled with hot glue gun.

Next, we melt wood glue, cut the burlap and glue the object. The photo has disappeared somewhere... but it’s not scary, the pasting is there, in this master class >> The principle is the same - there is nothing complicated. In the photo it is already coated with papier paste. Using a spatula, spread it thoroughly into two layers. 1st layer of rough. The 2nd layer is leveled and smoothed. Keep the spatula wet and it will be smooth.

I've been wondering for a long time how to make a porthole under glass?

I already wanted to turn on a machine, but I realized that I couldn’t do it “the same way”...

The need for invention is cunning. I took an empty plastic bucket of the required diameter. I cut out the bottom and lined the inside with papier mache. I performed this operation five times and got three identical rings under the glass.

Why five? Two went into marriage. There is no need to lubricate the bucket. Papier sticks to plastic only when it is wet. As soon as it dries thoroughly, it will fall off on its own. And the surface will be smoothly polished. But papier does not stick to a lubricated surface and when it dries, nothing holds it, the mass begins to warp in all sorts of ways.

While the rings are drying, we saw the helmet with a hacksaw.

Foam rings must be lined with reinforcement made of rigid wire. I did not do this, for which I was immediately punished. The polystyrene foam under the papier led and then I had to trim and file it all. Those. extra work. Annoying and spoils the mood. We also coat the inside of the helmet with papier.

Holes for portholes in hard-to-reach places are drilled, the rest is cut out with a jigsaw.

I used a ring from an old watch under the large porthole. The remaining three are squeezes from a plastic jar.

We also need grilles for the portholes. I made it out of plasticine, took off the mold and cast it in resin.

A wide ring from the same can fit wonderfully under the large porthole... I cut it off and placed it on papier.

Initially there was a problem with the nuts... I didn’t have any nuts. Out of hopelessness, I wanted to saw round pieces of wood and make nuts from them... an activity for the weak-minded... Then I picked up the antenna cable and the nuts and adapters appeared - complete stuffing. Under the screw - plastic. Of course this is an imitation. Nothing can be screwed onto these nuts.

Adapters for hoses... everything is for real...

Submariner's lamp - there will be light...

The “rubber” ring is a foam rubber gasket.

General view before painting.

But the nuts are store-bought wing nuts. I had to ruin the budget by 120 rubles. All other details are foundlings.

Now - painting. To begin with, the whole thing is to prime with PVA. In the photo the PVA is tinted with green paint.

And in this sad place the devil pulled me to dust everything with a spray can. To put it mildly, I despise spray cans...

Instead of a texture, I received a parody of “samovar gold”.

We place the gratings on the screws. No glass yet...

Then I tried to darken it with a weak bitumen solution. In some places the “copper” has washed away to a green color, but this is almost invisible in the photo.

That's it for today. There is no glass yet... I’m thinking of using bitumen on the product like an adult. I posted only part of the work. Next there will be a frame for the wall, hoses, skulls, lighting, etc. entourage…

How to wear a bicycle helmet correctly?

It is important to understand that wearing a helmet incorrectly will not protect a person in case of a sudden fall.

In this matter, experts recommend:

• Wear a regular hat, if required, and also tie up hair if the athlete has long hair.
• Take the model, unfasten all the straps and put it on your head.

It should not move to the right or left, or move to the back of the head.

• Use your hands to secure all the straps tightly.

You cannot tighten the belts too much, as this will cause discomfort while driving, and most importantly, the person’s blood flow will be impaired.

Also, the straps should not be fastened loosely, otherwise the bike helmet will fall or constantly move in different directions.

Caring for your bike helmet

Any type of bicycle helmet requires special care, only in this case the model will last for many years and will not lose its properties.

Experts recommend:

• After each ride, wipe it with a damp and clean terry cloth.
• You cannot use chemicals for cleaning, as the protective layer of the structure will be damaged.

Note: even if a wet cloth does not remove the dirt, you should not resort to chemicals.

• Wash the removable lining regularly.
• When you return home, put the model in the closet.

Storage on balconies, basements or garages is contraindicated.

Shelf life of a bicycle helmet

It is a mistake to believe that the shelf life of veshlems is unlimited. In fact, even if the cyclist has never worn one or had no falls, they should be replaced every 5 years.

After five years, the base of the structure begins to lose its properties, which means it becomes not reliable enough.

Important: it is also better to replace each type of cycling helmet after a fall.

DIY armor (from Saneck94cool)

DIY armor based on personal experience

Hello, glorious modelers of Swmodel.ru!
There are quite a lot of people who dream of their own clone armor, there are those who already want it, and there are also those who approach the assembly of such a miracle with all the seriousness of the situation and considerable experience. Unfortunately, when I finally decided to start building the armor, I did not have this experience and gained it in the process. Therefore, the following tedious article is based on my experience. However, the result turned out to be quite good. PS, this article is applicable to the creation of not only clone armor, but the article will describe its creation.

So, let's get started! Firstly, the most important thing that you guys need to know is that if you decide to create a suit of fairly good quality, which you could show off not only to friends or acquaintances (they often care about the quality), but also to professionals in such creativity, then here's what you need:

1) Stock up on a lot of patience; 2) Initially, have with you the initial capital and necessary tools (by capital I mean about 5,000 rubles, and don’t be so alarmed, you may need more..); 3) It will take about 1 year if you systematically work on the costume.

I. Preparation First of all, you must decide what kind of armor you will make. I chose phase I clone armor from the animated series "Star Wars: The Clone Wars" with its subsequent customization for the 501st Legion ARC.

Next, you must prepare the necessary resources and tools:

For assembly : 1) Work room (preferably ventilated); 3) Armor reamers (preferably of good quality, since they are easier to process in the future) 2) Dremel - a tool for grinding, cutting, drilling and polishing (I believe that such an ambitious project cannot be done without this tool, so I strongly advise you , don’t spare money on it! It’s truly a gorgeous instrument!); 3) Epoxy (polyester) resin (resin from an imported manufacturer is highly recommended, as it is of higher quality than resin from a domestic manufacturer); 4) Glass wool or fiberglass; 5) Automotive putty, universal and finishing (it is also recommended to use products from imported manufacturers); 6) Sandpaper (the coarsest grit and the finest); 7) Needle files (needed for grinding in hard-to-reach places); Plexiglas (is a very good spatula, you can use other plastics, so it’s suitable not only for a visor); 9) Brushes (preferably up to 20-30 pieces, small-medium); 10) Cups for mixing resin (about the same amount); 11) Sticks for mixing resin (about 10 pcs). For painting: 1) Primer;

2) automotive enamel; 3) masking tape (wide and narrow); 4) cloth (for weathering). For the fastening system: 1) Foam rubber (a sheet of 1*1 m should be enough); 2) straps; 3) Velcro; 4) plexiglass (or other similar plastic); 5) glue \"Moment gel Universal\"; 6) clothespins.

II. Assembling the base of the armor First we need to make our armor out of paper or cardboard. I think you already know how this process works, I’ll just explain how I made the armor from boxes. For developments, half of the armor was used, because the other half was asymmetrical with the first. We cut out two pieces of cardboard, one piece at a time, bend them symmetrically and glue them together.

To avoid deformation on the end parts of the armor, I glued more cardboard: for the legs and arms and stomach these were circles, for the chest and back it was just an outline.

Attention! I used this material due to the lack of normal development of clone armor at that time, so if you have it, I recommend assembling it from paper.

III. Strengthening

This is described in many articles on our website, there is nothing complicated about it, but I will describe it anyway. 1) Coat the inside of the armor with epoxy resin.

2) cut out pieces of fiberglass and cover it with a layer of resin.

3) all this is covered with resin so that the fiberglass is saturated well enough.

And now what to initially cover: 1) At the junction of the final armor and the cardboard used to prevent deformation, not too wide.

2) cut off the rest of the uncovered part so that you can crawl inside the armor piece and cover it there.

Attention! Be careful when adding hardener to the resin. If you add too much, the resin will harden quickly. A sausage 1-1.5 cm long is enough for a glass. The time is about 1 day.

IV . Coating with putty and sanding.

a) Puttying

You don’t need to know much: mix the hardener with the putty base, coat it, and sand it after drying. But there are some aspects: 1) You need to cover with a plastic spatula, because it does not leave gaps when leveling the putty. For this I used plexiglass. The perfect spatula! Take the putty with a spatula, level it with it, and do not press too hard on the surface.

2) The putty should be in a liquid state (this is exactly what it is in when you open the putty lid for the first time), because otherwise gaps during coating cannot be avoided. If it's a little dry, just add a little resin, but only a little.

3) You don’t need to cover it with a thin layer, especially for angular armor that you want to level. If there is not enough putty on the armor, then you will get to the paper layer and begin to tear it apart.

This applies specifically to universal putty.

If there really are gaps, then use finishing putty. It sands easier than the universal one and is suitable for getting rid of gaps.

PS , gaps really cannot be avoided, but if you follow the advice, you can reduce them to a minimum.

b) Grinding

This is the most time-consuming process and will require a lot of time and patience from you. If you are not ready to spend hours slogging around in the dust, then it is better to give up. If you don’t care how to work and you will go to the end (epic!), then the following recommendations are for you.

1)For sanding, you will mainly need coarse-grained sandpaper; fine-grained sandpaper is more suitable for polishing and adding shine, this is at your discretion.

2) It is very convenient to sand if you apply sandpaper to a hard object, for example, a piece of wooden board. 3) For grinding in hard-to-reach places, you can use a Dremel and needle files.

4)You can also stick sandpaper onto the plastic to sand small areas.

V. _ Priming, painting and weathering

Primers are materials that serve to adhere the paintwork to the surface being painted, resulting in an even and clean paint job. Primers are applied to a clean, leveled surface. In order to cover the armor with an even layer, the primer should not be applied with a brush (we don’t prime walls), but rather sprayed over the surface. To do this, you need either a spray bottle with a purchased can of primer, or primer in cans, it’s up to your taste, color and pocket, of course. But in terms of quality, I prefer automotive primer, just like paint.

paint in spray cans, because enamel is suitable for this type of painting .

If you need to make a specific design, then you need to glue masking tape to the armor and cut out the desired part directly on the armor according to the template, or glue the tape onto a smooth surface, cut it according to the template and stick it on the armor, but I can’t guarantee that the tape will be just as sticky . After this, check the tape to make sure there are no holes where paint can penetrate.

And you can start painting.

You need to paint at a distance of at least 20-30 cm so that the paint is covered evenly, otherwise drops may form.

Everything is painted and dried. Now you can start weathering. Simply put, weathering is a colorful effect, giving the model abrasion, charring, etc. I used a can of black paint, applied a small layer and rubbed it quickly with a cloth, because the paint dried quickly. But you can use other paints, google and look for other weathering methods.

I will add more material if possible. I hope this information helps you too.

I described all the methods from my own experience, so if you have alternative methods, I will be happy to add them to the article.

Thank you for your attention, your humble servant, Sanek94cool .

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