Saddles with rollers for electric guitar bridges. Second upgrade to my Telecaster.

Guitar repair. general information

Every guitarist at some point has to deal with something going wrong with their instrument. He stops playing, the chords become harder to play, or he just sees a crack right on the body that makes it completely impossible to play the guitar. In this article, we will take a detailed look at all the common problems that require guitar repair, and also give practical advice on how to solve them at home. It is worth saying that the list only includes breakdowns that can be fixed without a repairman. If your guitar's head has broken off and you don't have the skill or tools to fix it, your best bet is to turn to a professional.

Standard problems

Fingerboard curvature

The most common problem. This happens due to weather conditions and climate - the wood of the guitar becomes deformed and the neck can become warped, which interferes with playability. We talked about this problem in detail in the article on adjusting the anchor, and we will not focus on it.

Damage to the sill

Over time, any guitar saddle becomes unusable. They can wear off or simply break due to microcracks. In any case, such a defect does not allow you to play the instrument, and it must be eliminated.

Damage to the pegs

Another reason for guitar repair is broken tuners. Due to their damage, the guitar no longer stays in tune, and you will have to constantly adjust the instrument in order for it to sound at least somehow.

Frets protrude beyond the neck

Not exactly a breakdown, however, an important aspect that should be eliminated as soon as possible. The problem is common with factory guitars, where the frets may protrude slightly from the side of the neck. This can lead to discomfort when moving on it, as well as scratches and unpleasant sensations when playing.

Cracks in the deck

A serious problem that not only degrades the appearance of the instrument, but also affects the sound. Chips and cracks usually appear at the corners of the body, where the guitar is most vulnerable to external influences.

High or low string height

This problem is more likely a consequence of changing the deflection of the guitar neck or installing the wrong saddles on the instrument. The height of the strings is an important aspect that greatly affects the comfort of playing; it must be monitored and, if necessary, adjusted.

Worn down frets

Prolonged contact with the strings can cause your frets to wear down. This will also cause the instrument to stop building and sounding the way it should. In order to fix this, you need to replace the old frets with new ones.

Crack in fingerboard

A serious problem that occurs due to mechanical damage or natural stress on the guitar neck - for example, the wood has dried out too much. However, it can be fixed by repairing your guitar at home.

Locking pegs for electric guitar

I think everyone knows what the pegs on a guitar are - they hold and tune the strings. Locking pegs are pegs with a special string clamping mechanism that allows your guitar not to go out of tune for a long time. 6 in a row. First, about ordinary pegs, to make it clear: They look like this

And usually a string is wound on them something like this. These windings tend to spoil the tuning, the turns “crawl”, etc. The principle is shown in this video, the essence is clear

Locking pegs fix the string, which allows you to make only half a turn, and there will be no loosening of the string due to creeping turns, which means the tuning will not float. The locking pegs that I’ll tell you about today are quite common - they have, unlike regular ones, a protruding wheel

Compared to conventional

We unscrew the rod with this wheel - and now we get a regular peg

I think the system is already clear, when the wheel is unscrewed, the hole is free, insert the string

We put the string in, turn the wheel, the rod rises and clamps the string

That's it, half a turn - the string won't go anywhere. By the way, the sizes

The gear inside would seem to be completely without lubrication, but it is there, just a little

Pegs also have such a characteristic as the gear ratio - roughly speaking, this is how many times you need to turn the handle of the pegs so that it makes one rotation around its axis. That is, the more you need to turn the peg, the better, because in this way you can more accurately tune the guitar. In comparison with the old ones, I tested it this way: I pressed a toothpick for testing into the old and new pegs, and counted the number of revolutions until it completely rotated around its axis. Result: the old one needed 30 turns, the new one needed 34. It’s not that big of a difference, but it’s still a little bit there.

Installed the pegs, the black hardware looks great

Just in case, I added graphite lubricant - it won’t make things worse

Overall: the pegs are not bad for the price, they clamp the string properly and turn. The rod into which the string is threaded at the peg has a little play at 3-4 pegs - this often happens on pegs, I don’t see any particular problem with this. There is also another small minus - in one peg the rod that clamps the string does not reach the very end, i.e. It won’t work, for example, to pinch the first thin string there. I put it on the 6th string, i.e. It will clamp any string in the winding, and there is no problem. The main thing is that they do their job, stay in line... Moreover, the most important and main plus is the price. Locking pegs of this type from the brand will cost about 5-7 thousand rubles. Yes, I certainly understand putting branded locking tuners on top-end guitars - like a 15-year-old USA Stratocaster for a couple of thousand dollars - yes, of course it makes sense. But when you have an inexpensive guitar that costs just the same as branded tuners, then this option is very acceptable to replace the standard ones. The tuning is really held much better than usual, this is very noticeable when you take the guitar to play and, as usual, check the tuning before playing - but you don’t need to twist anything. Definitely worth the money.

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

Essential Tools for Home Repairs

Of course, you need special guitar tools for repairs. Here are the most basic things you will need for home repairs:

• Screwdriver Set
• Hex key set
• Epoxy adhesive
• Sandpaper
• Ruler and tape measure for measurements
• File
• Chisel
• Wire cutters

Depending on the task you face, the set may change either up or down.

Acoustic guitar repair

How to adjust string height

The main problem with adjusting string height on an acoustic guitar is the lack of a bridge. On non-electric instruments, there are several ways to solve the problem of too much or too little distance between the strings and the fingerboard:

1. Loosen or strengthen the neck anchor.
2. Change guitar nut
3. If the strings are too high, you can try sanding the grooves in the nut. To do this, remove the strings and sand the indentations with fine-grit sandpaper.

How to change the threshold

To change guitar saddles, you will need:

1. Remove the strings from the instrument.
2. Use any sharp object - a knife or chisel - to remove the old sill.
3. Prepare a new one for installation - take all measurements, removing excess if necessary. You can refer to the old part as you do this.
4. Place the threshold on superglue and wait until it dries.
5. Pull the strings.

If you are dealing with a blank for a threshold, then when taking measurements you can focus on the following values:

• Threshold thickness – 6-7 mm
• Height – thickness of the lining, plus 2.5 mm.
• The distance between the recesses is 0.1 cm.

How to replace guitar tuners

It’s worth saying right away that guitar pegs need to be replaced as a whole set, and not one at a time.

1. Choose the right model of pegs.
2. Remove all old kit.
3. If your pegs are not secured with screws, insert them into the holes left over from the old set.
4. If necessary, drill additional holes for screws.
5. Place the pegs on the neck and secure them to the head of the guitar.

Fret sanding

Sanding the frets is the simplest process. Run your palm along the edge of the fingerboard. If you feel like your hand is catching on the frets, use a small file or nail file to work the protruding parts until you no longer feel like they are protruding beyond the frets.

Replacing Frets

This procedure for repairing an acoustic guitar will require some skill, but if done carefully, it can be done without problems at home.

1. Separate the fret varnish from the fret varnish.
2. Remove the frets. To do this you will need wire cutters or a special fret removal tool. This must be done very carefully so as not to damage the lining.
3. Prepare the new kit you are going to install.
4. Clean out the indentations that appear after removing the old kit.
5. Insert new frets using a mallet or special hammer.
6. Sand the sides of the frets so they don't protrude beyond the neck.

Elimination of cracks in the lining

In order to do this, you will need dust from the wood from which the trim is made. You can buy it in special stores.

1. Remove the strings from the guitar.
2. Moisten the guitar pickguard and wait for the crack to open a little more.
3. Fill the crack with dust and cover it with superglue. Wait for it to dry.
4. Clean the repair area with sandpaper.

Please note that you should first process the overlay with paper with a large grain, and then reduce its size. The crack will gradually disappear as you sand.

How to choose strings for an electric guitar

Everything You Need to Know About Fender's Range of Electric Guitar Strings
There is no doubt that strings affect the sound and playability of an electric guitar. Let's face it, any guitar in your collection is just a percussion instrument if it doesn't have strings.

When it comes to Fender electric guitar strings, there are a number of factors to consider when choosing a set: the style of music you play, how regularly you play your guitar, and the scale length of your instrument.

These factors will determine the characteristics that differentiate electric guitar strings from the Fender catalog:

• caliber
• material
• core type
• winding type

In this article we will talk in detail about all the nuances, the understanding of which will help you choose the right strings for your Stratocaster, Telecaster

or any other electric guitar.

Caliber

This parameter refers to the size of the string, or more precisely its thickness, which is usually measured in thousandths of an inch. As a rule, in six-string sets, the gauges are indicated in order from high E string to low E string, respectively, and the remaining strings are indicated in the order B, G, D, A.

In general, light gauge strings have a slightly brighter sound and are easier to play, requiring less force to press and bend, and putting less stress on the neck.

On the other hand, thin strings sound quieter and have less sustain, and they are more likely to break.

This is not the case with thicker strings: they produce more sustain and volume, allowing you to play aggressively and dynamically - characteristics that make them a good choice for playing in lower or non-standard tunings. However, greater string thickness also means increased tension force and the need for additional effort to press the strings and perform pull-ups.

Experience has shown that for playing fast passages and complex chords, thin strings are the optimal choice (however, for heavy styles that use Drop D tuning, you should still choose sets with thicker twisted strings). Most blues and rock guitarists use medium-gauge strings, which successfully combine the advantages of thin and thick strings, while jazz players most often gravitate towards thick strings, sometimes even with a twisted third, because they practically do not use bends in their playing.

Here are the gauges used in the various sets of Fender strings (from light E string to heavy E string):

• "Extra Super Light": .008/.010/.015/.021/.030/.038
• "Light": .009/.011/.016/.024/.032/.042
• "Light-Regular": .009/.011/.016/.026/.036/.046
• "Regular": .010/.013/.017/.026/.036/.046
• Regular Heavy: .010/.013/.017/.032/.042/.052
• "Medium": .011/.014/.018/.028/.038/.049
• “Heavy”: .012/.016/.024w/.032/.042/.052 (“w” means wound string)

Material

Fender electric guitar strings are made of steel, so they optimally transfer their vibration energy to the magnetic pickup. The low strings (E, A and D) can be wound in a variety of alloys, while the smooth strings (G, B and E) are tin-plated.

The following are typical examples of materials used in the Fender line of strings:

• Nickel-Plated Steel: A popular combination that provides an optimal sonic balance between brightness, warmth and speed attack.
• Vintage Nickel: Quieter sound than nickel-plated steel.
• Stainless Steel: Very bright sound with excellent sustain, and longer life due to corrosion protection.

Core type

Most often, the cores are also made of steel. The core (or "core") is the central element around which the winding is wound to increase the thickness of the string.

Modern strings most often have hexagonal cores, since this design fixes the winding and thus stabilizes the tuning.

Winding

Roundwound strings use round wire that is wound around a core, while Flatwound strings are made using wire that is more like a ribbon.

Round winding is the most popular, so round wound strings are available in a wide variety of gauges and materials on the market. Round wound strings are said to have a brighter sound and longer sustain.

A favorite among jazz guitarists, flatwound strings provide a pleasantly smooth feel and a softer tone. The smooth surface of such a winding makes playing the guitar somewhat easier.

String fastening

Fender offers strings in two styles: Ball end and Bullet end.

Ball strings can be used on any electric guitar. The core of such a string loops around a small metal element in the shape of a Ball, or rather a ring. This method forms a V-shaped structure with a “weak” loop from the core. Under normal string tension, this loop stretches, preventing the ring from completely adhering to the tailpiece.

Bullet end strings are tipped with a small bronze cylinder that is rigidly attached to the end of the string. With this design, there are no loops or sagging - the working part of the tip is adjacent to the tailpiece more closely and tightly. Consequently, the high-precision bullet tip design ensures that the string returns exactly to its original position, which greatly improves tuning stability even after intensive tremolo use.

This type of tip was specially designed for the Stratocaster, since it is the “bullet” that provides the most reliable fixation of the string in the sustain block and fits tightly in accordance with the shape of the string channel, thus increasing sustain.

What can you use to care for your strings?

Electric guitar strings are made of steel, and steel contains iron, which will corrode in the presence of oxygen. Of course, this is a slow process, but air humidity and hand marks can significantly speed it up.

Fortunately, you can extend the life of your strings with regular cleaning. For this, some kind of string cleaner in combination with a special cloth, or a simple polishing cloth is quite suitable. Fender also offers a special Speed ​​Slick applicator that allows you to restore clarity and extend the life of your strings with just a few strokes along them.

Finally, remember to wash your hands before playing the guitar to ensure that the strings are left with as little harmful residue as possible.

Below are signs that mean it's time to change your strings:

1. The system became unstable.
2. There is noticeable corrosion on the strings.
3. The guitar started to sound hollow.
4. The braid has lost its integrity.

If you want to learn how to properly change strings on an electric guitar, watch the instructional video below:

There is a big plus in such a variety of strings - it is a choice. A great way to find out what's best for you is to try a few different options and settle on what works best for you.

Once you've selected the optimal strings, all you have to do is regularly monitor their condition to ensure your sound is always excellent.

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